DOORS & JOINERY

Fit skirting board to a solid brick or block wall

Measure, cut and fix skirting board around a room, checking what each wall is made of before you drill.

SK-01Measure the room and buy your materialsMeasure the total length of wall you need to cover, then add 10% for waste and mistakes on mitres. Choose a skirting profile and size to match the rest of the house (15 x 95mm MDF ogee is a common choice). Buy enough lengths, plus filler, caulk, and paint if you're finishing on site.
1 metre · MDF skirting board, 15 x 95mm
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
SK-02Clear the room and take up the old skirtingMove furniture back and roll up carpet edges or protect the floor with dust sheets. Lever the old skirting off with a bolster and claw hammer, working along the length rather than yanking one end. Pull or punch through any old nails left in the wall before you continue.
1 each · Bolster chisel
1 each · Claw hammer
2 each · Dust sheet
SK-03Work out what's behind the wall before you drillUse a stud/metal detector along the wall. A line of regular clicks or a magnet catching on screw heads usually means a timber stud wall; a similar line with no timber pilot-hole dust, but fine steel swarf instead, means metal studs. A dull, hollow knock with no stud pattern behind plasterboard usually means dot-and-dab over solid masonry. A solid, dense knock with no hollow sound means solid brick or block. On older houses, thin ridges felt under the plaster at roughly 400mm spacing suggest lath and plaster. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere, so even after using a detector, assume something could still be there until you prove otherwise — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or outside the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
SK-04Cut the first length and fit the cornersStart with the longest wall. Cut external corners as 45° mitres and internal corners as a scribed cope joint, which sits tighter than a mitre on uneven walls. Dry-fit each length before cutting the next, checking the joints close up without gaps.
1 each · Mitre saw
1 each · Coping saw
SK-05Fix skirting to solid brick or block wallsDrill through the skirting into the wall at roughly 400-600mm spacing, using a masonry bit sized to match your wall plug. A typical fixing is a 5mm plug with a 5mm masonry bit, drilled to at least 35mm depth, with a 40-50mm screw. Add a bead of grab adhesive to the back of the board as extra hold, especially on uneven brickwork.
20 each · Wall plugs, 5mm
20 each · Screws, 40mm
1 tube · Grab adhesive
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 5mm
SK-06Fix skirting where a stud partition wall takes overInto a timber stud, drive a wood screw into the centre of the stud, roughly 40mm long. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight — never a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Skirting is light, so a metal stud on its own will hold it fine; it's only much heavier fittings, like TV brackets or basins, that need a timber noggin fitted between the studs.
10 each · Wood screws, 40mm
10 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings
10 each · Hollow-wall toggle anchors
SK-07Fix skirting over dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab is 12.5mm plasterboard stuck to the masonry with adhesive dabs, leaving a 10-20mm gap behind it. Use a fixing long enough to pass through the board, the gap, and still bite at least 35mm into the masonry — typically a 75mm screw with a matching plug. Drill slowly and steadily so you don't crack the plasterboard face as you break through.
15 each · Wall plugs, 6mm
15 each · Screws, 75mm
SK-08Fix skirting on a lath and plaster wallLaths are thin timber strips nailed to the studs, with plaster keyed through the gaps between them — screwing into laths alone is weak and can crack the plaster. Find the timber studs behind using your detector or a small pilot hole (timber dust means you've hit a stud), then use a longer screw, around 50-60mm, to pass through the lath and plaster and bite properly into the stud.
15 each · Screws, 60mm
SK-09Fill, caulk and sandFill screw or nail holes with wood filler and leave to dry. Run a bead of decorator's caulk along the top edge where the skirting meets the wall, and smooth it with a wet finger. Sand any filled areas flush once dry.
1 tub · Wood filler
1 tube · Decorator's caulk
1 pack · Sandpaper, fine grit
SK-10Paint or finish the skirtingApply primer if the board is bare, then undercoat, then a topcoat of durable satin or eggshell paint. Let each coat dry fully before the next, and use masking tape along the floor and wall edge for a crisp line.
1 litre · Primer/undercoat
1 litre · Satin or eggshell paint
1 roll · Masking tape
SK-11Clean up and put the room back togetherVacuum up sawdust and offcuts, and bag up waste skirting for disposal. Peel off the masking tape once the paint is dry enough to hold a crisp edge. Move furniture and refit carpet edges once everything is fully cured.
1 each · Rubble sack

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