DOORS & JOINERY

Fit skirting board to a timber stud wall

Fit new skirting board along a wall, cutting neat corners and fixing it securely into whatever is behind the plasterboard.

SK-01Clear the room and remove old skirtingMove furniture away from the wall and lay a dust sheet along the skirting line. If you're replacing old skirting, work along it with a bolster chisel and pry bar, levering gently from one end so you don't damage the plaster. Pull out any old nails left in the wall with pincers, then vacuum up dust and debris and check the wall behind for damage.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Pry bar
1 each · Bolster chisel
1 each · Claw hammer
1 each · Pincers
SK-02Work out what's behind the wall along the runSkirting often crosses more than one wall type in the same room, so check each stretch separately. Run a stud detector along the wall about 100mm above the skirting line to find studs, then drill a small pilot hole to confirm — timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means metal. A dull, solid knock all along means solid brick or block. A hollow knock with a firmer point every 400-600mm means dot-and-dab plasterboard, and a hollow but slightly springy sound means lath and plaster.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · 2mm pilot drill bit
SK-03Measure and cut the skirting boardsMeasure each wall length and mark where boards meet at internal and external corners. Cut external corners as 45° mitres with a mitre saw or mitre box, and cut internal corners as a scribed profile with a coping saw for a tighter fit than a mitre gives. Cut boards a fraction long rather than short, and offer each piece up before fixing to check the fit.
20 m · Skirting board
1 each · Mitre saw
1 each · Coping saw
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
SK-04Fix the skirting into the right wall typeBefore you drill or nail, remember cables and pipes can run behind skirting height too, especially near sockets — a detector helps but can miss deep or shielded cables, so go carefully and stop if you feel resistance. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start; if you're at all unsure what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and turn off the water at the stopcock before drilling near it. On a timber stud wall, nail into the centre of each stud with 50-65mm lost-head nails or drive 4x50mm screws into pre-drilled holes, plus a bead of grab adhesive along the back for support between fixings. On plasterboard over metal studs, nails pull straight out, so use self-drilling metal-stud screws into the stud track and grab adhesive — never a plain wall plug or wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, fixings need to reach the masonry behind the adhesive dabs, so use a 60-75mm masonry screw drilled to the depth marked on the fixing packaging. On solid brick or block, drill a 6-7mm hole to 40mm depth, insert a wall plug, and drive a 50-60mm screw or masonry nail. On lath and plaster, fixings must find the timber studs or noggins behind the laths, so use 60-70mm screws to reach through the extra thickness.
1 box · 50mm lost-head nails
1 box · 4x50mm wood screws
1 tube · Grab adhesive
1 packet · Self-drilling metal-stud screws
1 packet · 60mm masonry screws
1 packet · Wall plugs
1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit
1 each · Cordless drill
SK-05Fill nail holes and seal gapsPunch nail heads below the surface with a nail punch, then fill the holes with flexible decorators' filler. Run a thin bead of flexible caulk along the top edge of the skirting where it meets the wall, and along the floor joint if there's a gap. Wipe off excess caulk with a damp cloth before it skins over.
1 each · Nail punch
1 tub · Decorators' filler
1 tube · Flexible caulk
1 each · Caulk gun
SK-06Sand and paint the skirtingOnce the filler and caulk are fully dry, sand lightly with fine abrasive paper for a smooth, flush finish. Wipe away dust with a tack cloth, then apply primer if the skirting is bare wood or MDF. Finish with two coats of skirting paint, cutting in neatly along the top edge with a good brush.
1 pack · Fine sandpaper
1 each · Tack cloth
1 litre · Primer/undercoat
1 litre · Skirting board paint
1 each · Paintbrush
SK-07Tidy upSweep or vacuum up all sawdust, offcuts and packaging. Wipe down your tools and store leftover fixings and paint for touch-ups later. Check the skirting is firmly fixed all along its length before you move the furniture back.
1 pack · Bin bags

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