Fit new vinyl flooring neatly around a toilet and pipework, using a template, pipe collars and sanitary silicone for a tidy, watertight finish.
VF-01Check the old flooring before you touch itIf you're lifting old vinyl or flooring adhesive in a home built before 2000, stop before you cut, sand or scrape anything. Old vinyl and the black bitumen adhesive under it can contain asbestos. If you're at all unsure what's there, get a sample tested by a professional before you carry on.
RULESKNOW THE RULES
Disturbing asbestos-containing materials is covered by UK asbestos safety law. If in doubt about old flooring or adhesive in a pre-2000 home, get it tested first rather than cutting into it yourself.
VF-02Clear the room and check the subfloorMove the bin, bath mat and any loose furniture out of the way. Check the subfloor is clean, dry and flat, with no loose boards or lumps of old adhesive, as these will show through new vinyl. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly before you start measuring.
VF-03Make a paper template of the roomLay sheets of paper or thin card over the floor, butting them up to the skirting, the toilet pan and the pipes, and tape them together. Cut notches and slits in the template so it sits flat around the pan and each pipe, then mark which way is which. This template is your guide for cutting the real vinyl, so take your time getting it accurate.
1 roll · Lining paper or card sheets VF-04Transfer the template to the vinyl and cut oversizeUnroll the vinyl flooring in a warm room and let it lie flat for a few hours if it's been rolled tightly, so it's easier to work with. Lay the template on top, trace round it, then cut the vinyl about 20-30mm oversize all round, including around the toilet and pipe marks. Cutting oversize gives you room to adjust the fit before the final trim.
1 m2 · Sheet vinyl flooring VF-05Dry-fit the vinyl and mark the pipe positionsCarry the vinyl in and lay it in place, easing it up against the skirting and round the toilet pan. Don't try to lift the toilet to fit the vinyl underneath it — cut around the pan instead, as lifting and refitting a toilet is a plumbing job. Mark the centre of each pipe on the vinyl with a pencil, then push the vinyl back out of the way.
VF-06Cut slits for the pipes and fit pipe collarsAt each pipe mark, cut a neat circle slightly bigger than the pipe, then cut a single straight slit from that circle out to the nearest edge of the vinyl. This lets you fit the vinyl round the pipe without having to disconnect it. Once the vinyl is in place, fit a pipe collar or rosette round each pipe to hide the cut edge.
2 pack · Pipe collars/rosettes VF-07Trim the vinyl for a snug fit around the panWorking in small sections, trim the oversize edge back with a sharp blade until the vinyl sits flat and meets the skirting and the base of the pan neatly. Take off small amounts at a time — it's easy to trim more off, but you can't put it back. Check the fit around the pan from a few angles before you're happy with it.
VF-08Stick the vinyl downFor a small area like this, flooring adhesive or double-sided flooring tape around the edges and at the seams is usually enough. Peel back the vinyl in sections, apply the adhesive or tape to the subfloor, then press the vinyl down firmly, working out any air bubbles towards the edges.
1 each · Vinyl flooring adhesive or double-sided flooring tape VF-09Seal around the toilet base and pipesRun a neat bead of sanitary silicone where the vinyl meets the base of the toilet pan and around each pipe collar. This stops water getting under the vinyl and is covered step by step in HomeGraft's 'Seal around the base of a toilet' guide. Smooth the bead with a damp finger or sealant tool for a tidy finish.
1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant VF-10Tidy up and leave it to cureWipe away any adhesive smears from the vinyl surface while they're still fresh, as dried adhesive is much harder to remove. Leave the room clear of foot traffic for the time stated on the adhesive and silicone packaging, usually at least a few hours, before putting the bin and mat back.
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