FLOORING

Fit laminate around a pipe

Cut a laminate board neatly around a pipe, leaving the right expansion gap, so the floor sits flat and looks tidy.

PL-01Gather your tools and check the gap you needYou'll need a tape measure, pencil, compass or a coin to draw a circle, a flat wood bit or hole saw, a jigsaw, and PVA wood glue. Check your laminate's fitting instructions for the expansion gap it needs — usually 10mm from walls and fixed objects, so allow 10mm clear all round the pipe too. Wear safety glasses when drilling and cutting.
1 each · Flat wood bit or hole saw set
1 each · Jigsaw with fine wood blade
1 bottle · PVA wood glue
1 pair · Safety glasses
PL-02Measure exactly where the pipe falls on the boardDry-lay the board in its final position next to the last board fitted. Measure from two fixed points — the skirting corner and the edge of the last board — to the centre of the pipe. Transfer these two measurements onto the laminate board so you can pinpoint the pipe centre without guessing.
1 each · Tape measure
PL-03Mark the hole and the cut lineAt the marked pipe centre, draw a circle with a diameter equal to the pipe's outer width plus 20mm (10mm clearance all round). Then draw a straight line from the edge of the circle to the nearest edge of the board, following the direction the board will slide in. This line is where you'll cut the board in two.
1 each · Compass or pipe offcut for tracing
1 each · Pencil
PL-04Drill the pipe holeClamp the board to a workbench, show face up. Drill the marked circle with the flat bit or hole saw, sized to match the circle you drew. Drilling from the show face gives a cleaner edge and less splintering on the surface that will be seen.
2 each · Clamps
PL-05Cut the board through to the holeUsing the jigsaw, cut along the straight line from the board edge into the hole, staying just on the waste side of your pencil line. This splits the board into two pieces that will fit either side of the pipe.
PL-06Dry-fit both pieces around the pipeSlide the two cut pieces into position around the pipe without glue. Check the gap is even all the way round and matches your other expansion gaps. Trim slightly with a sanding block if it's too tight anywhere.
1 each · Sanding block
PL-07Glue the cut line back togetherOnce you're happy with the fit, run a thin line of PVA wood glue along the cut edge and press the two pieces back together around the pipe. Hold with masking tape while it sets. This locks the join solid and makes the cut almost invisible once fitted.
1 roll · Masking tape
PL-08Lay the board into the floorEngage the tongue and groove with the neighbouring boards and tap gently into place with a tapping block. Keep your expansion gap spacers against the wall while you do this, and don't remove them until the whole floor is finished.
1 set · Tapping block and pull bar
10 each · Expansion gap spacers
PL-09Fit a pipe collar to hide the gapPush a two-part plastic pipe collar around the pipe so it sits flush on the laminate, covering the expansion gap neatly. Most click together without glue. Choose a collar colour close to your flooring for the best finish.
1 each · Two-part pipe collar
PL-10Tidy upVacuum up sawdust and offcuts. Once the whole room is laid, remove the wall spacers and refit skirting or beading if you took any off earlier. Give the pipe area a final check to make sure the board sits flat with no rocking.

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