Fix peeling paint on a ceiling

Scrape away peeling ceiling paint, treat the cause, then prime and repaint for a smooth, lasting finish.

PC-01Work out why the paint is peelingPeeling ceiling paint almost always means moisture got under the paint film - a leak, condensation, or paint applied over a damp or dusty surface. Check the room above (bathroom, kitchen, roof space) for signs of a leak, and look at the ceiling for brown staining or a musty smell. If you find an active leak, get that fixed first - repainting over it will fail again within weeks.

PC-02Clear the room and protect surfacesMove furniture out or into the middle of the room, and cover the floor and anything left with dust sheets. If you can, switch off the electricity to any ceiling light in the work area at the consumer unit before you start scraping near it. Keep a window open for ventilation.

2 each · Dust sheets

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PC-03Scrape off all loose and peeling paintUsing a paint scraper, work across the whole ceiling, not just the obviously peeling patch - paint next to it is often loose too and will fail soon after you repaint. Wear eye protection, as flakes fall as you work. If your home was built before the 1960s, treat old paint layers as possibly containing lead: don't dry-sand it, and wear a proper FFP3 dust mask rather than a basic one.

1 each · Paint scraper

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1 each · Safety glasses

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2 each · FFP3 dust mask

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PC-04Sand the edges smoothSand the edges of every scraped patch with medium-grit sandpaper so they feather into the surrounding paint rather than leaving a hard ridge. Wipe away dust with a dry cloth as you go so you can see the surface properly.

3 each · Sandpaper, 120 grit

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PC-05Fill any dents or uneven patchesFill any gouges, dents or uneven spots left by scraping with a flexible multi-purpose filler, applied with a filling knife. Let it dry fully before moving on - check the tin, but allow at least a few hours.

1 tub · Multi-purpose filler

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1 each · Filling knife

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PC-06Sand the filler flushOnce the filler is fully dry, sand it with fine-grit sandpaper until it's smooth and level with the surrounding ceiling. Run your hand over it to check for any lumps or edges before you move on.

3 each · Sandpaper, 180-240 grit

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PC-07Dust down and wipe the ceilingWipe the whole ceiling with a slightly damp sponge or soft cloth to remove all sanding dust. Dust left behind stops the new paint keying properly and will show as a rough patch once painted.

1 each · Sponge or cloth

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PC-08Prime bare patches and any stainingPrime any bare plaster, filler, or brown or yellow staining with a stain-block primer - ordinary ceiling paint will not stop old water stains bleeding through. Apply with a brush for small patches, and let it dry fully before you paint over it, following the drying time on the tin.

1 litre · Stain-block primer

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1 each · Paintbrush, 50mm

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PC-09Apply the first coat of ceiling paintCut in around the edges and any light fittings with a brush, then roll on the first coat of matt ceiling paint using a roller on an extension pole so you're not overreaching from the steps. Work in overlapping strips while the edges are still wet to avoid visible joins.

2.5 litre · Ceiling paint (matt emulsion)

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1 each · Roller and tray set

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1 each · Extension pole

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PC-10Apply the second coatLet the first coat dry fully - check the tin, but allow at least 2-4 hours - then apply a second coat for even coverage. Pay particular attention to the repaired and primed patches, as they often need the extra coat to blend in fully.

PC-11Clean up and tidy awayWash rollers and brushes straight away in warm water before the paint dries in them. Fold up dust sheets carefully to avoid spreading dust, and bag up paint scrapings and used sandpaper for normal household waste.

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