Paint a ceiling — HomeGraft

Paint a ceiling in one session: clear the room, protect everything, fill cracks, then apply a mist coat and two topcoats.

PC-01Clear the room and protect surfacesMove furniture to the centre of the room or out completely. Cover the floor and any remaining furniture with dust sheets, taping them down at the skirting so they don't slip. Take down curtains and light fittings covers if you can, or plan to mask them instead.

2 each · Cotton dust sheets

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1 roll · Masking tape 50mm

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PC-02Check what your ceiling is made ofPlasterboard ceilings are flat and smooth, common in most homes built or replastered after the 1970s. Lath and plaster ceilings are older, sit under a thin skim of lime plaster, and feel slightly springy if you press gently — they're more fragile and crack more easily. If your ceiling has a textured or 'Artex' finish, stop before doing anything abrasive to it.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Textured coatings applied before 2000 can contain asbestos. Don't sand, scrape or drill a textured ceiling without testing it first. HSE guidance says treat any pre-2000 textured coating as asbestos until proven otherwise, and use a specialist if it tests positive.

PC-03Clean the ceilingDust the whole ceiling with a soft brush or the brush attachment on a vacuum to remove cobwebs and loose debris. Wipe off any greasy marks (common above cookers) with a cloth and mild sugar soap solution, then let it dry fully before you fill or paint.

1 bottle · Sugar soap

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1 pack · Cleaning cloths

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PC-04Fill cracks and holesOn plasterboard, push a flexible filler into any cracks or nail pops with a filling knife, slightly overfilling. On lath and plaster, use a flexible decorator's filler too, since the ceiling moves slightly with the house — a rigid filler will crack again. Let it dry fully, usually a few hours, before sanding back flush.

1 330ml tube · Flexible decorator's filler

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1 each · Filling knife

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PC-05Sand smooth and dust offSand filled areas lightly with fine sandpaper until smooth and flush with the surrounding surface. Wipe or vacuum away all the dust afterwards — any left behind will show through the paint as a rough patch.

1 pack · Fine sandpaper (120 grit)

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PC-06Mask the edges and fittingsRun masking tape along the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling, pressing it down firmly for a crisp line. Cover any light fittings, ceiling roses or smoke alarms with tape or a plastic bag rather than removing them if you're not confident with the wiring.

1 roll · Masking tape 50mm

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4 each · Small plastic bags

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PC-07Apply a mist coat if the plaster is newNew plasterboard or fresh skim plaster is very absorbent, so thin your first coat of white emulsion with about 10-20% water and roll it on evenly. This is called a mist coat and helps the topcoats go on evenly. Skip this step on an older ceiling that's already been painted before.

2.5 litre · White matt emulsion

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PC-08Cut in the edgesUsing a 50mm angled brush, paint a neat band around the edges of the ceiling and around any fittings, about 50-75mm wide. Work in short sections so the edge stays wet and blends with the rolled areas that follow.

1 each · Angled cutting-in brush 50mm

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PC-09Roll the first full coatLoad a medium-pile roller on an extension pole and work in overlapping strips across the width of the room, always finishing each strip while the edge is still wet. Keep to a steady pattern — for example, always rolling towards the window — so the light doesn't pick up patchy lines once dry.

1 each · Roller frame and extension pole

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2 each · Medium-pile roller sleeve

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5 litre · Ceiling emulsion (matt)

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PC-10Let it dry and apply the second coatLeave the first coat to dry fully, usually 4-6 hours, following the paint tin's guidance. Repeat the cutting-in and rolling steps for a second, even coat, working in the same direction as before for a consistent finish.

PC-11Remove masking and clean upOnce the final coat is dry to the touch, peel off the masking tape carefully at a shallow angle to keep the paint edge sharp. Rinse rollers and brushes in warm water for water-based emulsion, or the correct solvent if you used anything oil-based, and let tools dry before storing.

1 litre · White spirit (if needed for oil-based paint)

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PC-12Refit fittings and put the room back togetherRemove the protective bags from light fittings and smoke alarms, and refit anything you took down earlier such as curtains. Fold up dust sheets carefully to avoid spreading any dried paint flakes, and move furniture back once the ceiling feels fully dry, usually the next day.

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