Hang a picture frame on a lath and plaster wall

A step-by-step guide to hanging a picture frame securely on an old lath and plaster wall, without cracking the plaster.

PF-01Gather your tools and choose the spotDecide where the frame will hang, thinking about eye level and nearby light switches or sockets. Lay out a pencil, tape measure, spirit level, detector, drill, screwdriver, and the hook or screw you plan to use. Check the frame's hanging point (D-ring, wire, or built-in hook) so you know exactly what you're fixing to the wall.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level

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PF-02Work out what's actually behind the plasterLath and plaster (common in homes built before the 1930s) sounds hollow and slightly springy when you knock it, with thin timber laths nailed behind the plaster onto timber studs. Run a detector or a magnet across the wall to find the timber underneath - a magnet will catch on the nail heads holding the laths. If the wall is actually solid brick or block, it will sound solid all over with no give. Plasterboard on timber studs sounds hollow between studs set roughly every 400-600mm. Plasterboard on metal studs also sounds hollow, but a magnet finds regular screw heads instead of nails, and cheap detectors can get confused by the metal frame. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow in most places but solid at intervals where the adhesive dabs sit behind it.

1 each · Stud, cable and pipe detector

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PF-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones', and a detector can miss ones that are deep, in metal conduit, or hidden behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the plaster, switch off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

PF-04Mark and level the fixing pointHold the frame up (or measure from its hanging point) to work out exactly where the screw or hook needs to go. Use a spirit level to make sure your mark is level, not just measured from the floor, which is rarely straight. Mark the spot lightly with a pencil.

PF-05Drill the pilot hole to suit your wallOn lath and plaster, drill on a slow speed with no hammer action - the plaster is brittle and old, and vibration can shatter the key that holds it to the laths. If you hit solid timber (a lath or a stud), keep going to the depth needed for your screw. If the hole only passes through plaster and thin lath with nothing solid behind, stop drilling deeper and plan to use a hollow-wall fixing instead. On solid brick or block, use a masonry bit sized to match your wall plug. On plasterboard over a timber stud, drill a pilot hole the same width as the screw shank. On plasterboard over a metal stud, drill a small pilot hole first - fine steel swarf rather than timber dust confirms metal, and most fixings there are self-drilling so need no pilot hole at all. On dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard skin and on into the masonry behind it.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 5mm

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1 each · HSS drill bit, 3mm

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PF-06Fit the right fixing for what you foundIf you're into timber behind the plaster (a lath or a stud), use a brass picture hook nail or a wood screw driven straight into it - this is the strongest and simplest option. If you're only in plaster and thin lath with nothing solid behind, use a small spring toggle or self-drilling hollow-wall fixing rated for at least the frame's weight, and keep the hardware light, since lath and plaster is more fragile than modern plasterboard. On solid brick or block, tap in a wall plug flush with the surface and drive the screw in. On plasterboard over a timber stud, drive a wood screw into the centre of the stud. On plasterboard over a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle fixing - never a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, as these strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough to bridge the gap and bite into the masonry behind, typically 50-60mm. A single picture frame is light, so none of these walls should need a noggin - that's only for heavier items like TV brackets or basins.

1 pack · Wall plugs (masonry), pack of 10

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1 pack · Screws, mixed pack

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1 pack · Self-drilling hollow-wall/spring toggle fixings, pack

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1 each · Brass picture hook

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PF-07Hang the frame and check it's levelLift the frame onto the hook or screw and let the wire or D-ring settle into place. Step back and check it's level and at the height you intended, using the spirit level if it's not obvious by eye. Give the frame a gentle tug to make sure the fixing feels solid before letting go.

PF-08Tidy up and patch any marksIf drilling left any hairline cracks in the old plaster, fill them with a dab of multi-purpose filler and let it dry. Sand the patch smooth once dry, then wipe the wall down to remove dust. Vacuum up any plaster dust or debris on the floor and put your tools away.

1 each · Multi-purpose filler, small tube

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1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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