HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Hang a gallery wall of frames on a lath and plaster wall

Plan your layout, find safe fixing points, then hang and level a cluster of frames without cracking the plaster.

LP-01Lay out your gallery wall on the floor firstLay all the frames out on the floor in the pattern you want, keeping gaps of 50-70mm between frames. Take a photo from above so you don't lose the arrangement. If the frames are different sizes, cut paper templates the same size as each one - this makes marking the wall far easier than guessing from a tape measure.
1 each · Kraft paper roll
1 roll · Masking tape
LP-02Mark up the wall with your layoutTape the paper templates to the wall in your planned pattern, working out from a centre point. Use a spirit level to keep the top row level and a laser level to project a line across the whole group if it's wide. Mark each fixing point through the template with a pencil, and double-check every measurement before you drill anything.
1 roll · Masking tape
1 each · Pencil
LP-03Work out what's behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster is thin timber strips nailed to studs or battens, covered in a lime plaster skim - the plaster alone won't hold a fixing, so you need to find solid backing. Run a stud detector or magnet over each marked point: a line of nail heads shows where a lath crosses a stud, a dull solid knock usually means masonry behind the laths, and a hollow springy knock means you're between studs. Old houses are often patched with plasterboard after rewiring or damp repairs, so if a patch feels flatter and taps differently, treat it separately and check it against the timber-versus-metal-stud test in the next step. Before you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, and if there's any real doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first - a detector can miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or outside the usual zones, especially in an old wall.
LP-04Pick the right fixing for each pointOver solid masonry, use a wall plug and screw sized for brick or block, long enough to clear the plaster and lath and still bite 25-30mm into the masonry. Over a timber stud, use a wood screw driven into the centre of the stud, long enough to clear the plaster and lath and still bite at least 25mm into the timber. If a point falls between studs with no backing, only use it for light frames, and use a self-drilling fixing made specifically for lath and plaster - a standard plasterboard toggle can crack the laths as it opens. For any point that lands on a plasterboard patch, work out whether it's timber or metal studwork first, then follow the plasterboard fixings in the next step.
1 pack of 10 · Masonry wall plugs (e.g. Rawlplug Uno 6mm)
1 pack of 10 · Wood screws 50mm
1 pack of 4 · Lath and plaster self-drilling fixing
LP-05Drill and fit each fixingBefore you drill, re-check with your detector and still treat every point as if a cable or pipe could be there - if in doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and turn the water off at the stopcock first. Into masonry, drill through the plaster and lath into the brick or block to match your plug's depth, then insert the plug and drive the screw. Into a timber stud, drill a small pilot hole through the plaster and lath into the centre of the stud, then drive the wood screw flush. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor - never a wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. For a heavy or ornate frame that could pull away from the wall, fix into a timber noggin between the studs or through to the masonry behind instead.
1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm
1 each · Wood drill bit 4mm
4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixing
4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchor
LP-06Hang the frames and check levelHang each frame on its fixing, starting from your centre point and working outwards. Check each one with a spirit level as you go, and pack a small piece of card behind one corner if a frame won't sit level on an uneven old wall. Step back regularly to check the group as a whole, not just each frame on its own.
LP-07Fine-tune the spacingStand back at least 2m and check the gaps and alignment across the whole wall. Small gaps of a few millimetres are easier to fix now than after everything is settled - loosen and re-hang any frame that's noticeably off before you finish.
LP-08Tidy up and make goodFill any test holes or unused pilot holes with a small amount of multi-purpose filler, leave it to dry, then give it a light sand. Vacuum plaster and wood dust from the floor and skirting - old lath and plaster dust can contain lime plaster, so wipe surfaces with a damp cloth rather than dry dusting. Wash down your tools and put everything away.
1 tub · Multi-purpose filler
1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides