Lay artificial grass

Clear the old lawn, build a solid sub-base, then lay, join and secure your artificial grass for a neat, long-lasting finish.

AB-01Measure the area and order materialsMeasure the length and width of the area in metres and multiply to get the area in m². Add 10% to the grass quantity for trimming and pattern matching. As a working example, this guide uses a 20m² garden — scale the quantities below up or down to match your own plot.

AB-02Strip out the old lawnDig out the existing turf and topsoil to a depth of about 75-100mm across the whole area, using a spade or a hired turf cutter for speed. Keep the dig shallow and even, and be aware that garden lighting cables, pond pump cables or irrigation pipes can be buried just under the surface, especially near the house or existing sockets. If you feel or see anything unexpected, stop digging around it and trace it by hand rather than pulling it out.

1 each · Turf cutter hire (day)

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AB-03Lay and compact the sub-baseSpread MOT Type 1 hardcore across the cleared area to a depth of about 50-75mm. Rake it level, then compact it firmly with a vibrating plate compactor, working in slow overlapping passes. This layer stops the grass sinking or puddling later, so don't skip the compaction step even though it's the least visible part of the job.

2 each · MOT Type 1 hardcore (bulk bag)

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1 each · Plate compactor hire (day)

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AB-04Add and level a sand blinding layerSpread a thin layer of sharp sand, about 20mm deep, over the compacted hardcore. Use a long straight board or a screeding bar to level it, checking there's a very slight fall (around 1 in 80) away from the house so rainwater drains off rather than pooling. Compact this layer lightly too.

1 each · Sharp sand (bulk bag)

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AB-05Lay the weed membraneRoll out a heavy-duty weed control membrane across the whole area, overlapping joins by at least 100mm. This stops weeds pushing up through the grass later. Trim it roughly to the edges of the area with a utility knife — it doesn't need to be neat yet, as the grass will cover it.

1 each · Heavy-duty weed membrane (25m² roll)

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AB-06Roll out the grass and let it settleUnroll the artificial grass over the area and leave it to relax for a few hours, ideally in the sun, so any creases drop out. Make sure the pile on every piece runs in the same direction — usually away from the house — as this affects how the colour looks once it's down.

20 m2 · Artificial grass (per m²)

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AB-07Join any piecesIf the area is wider than one roll, butt the edges together closely without overlapping or gapping. Lay jointing tape underneath the seam, glue side up, then apply outdoor grass adhesive along the tape and press both edges down firmly into it. Weight the seam down while it cures, following the glue's stated curing time.

1 each · Artificial grass jointing tape (10m roll)

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1 each · Outdoor grass adhesive (tub)

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AB-08Trim and peg the edgesTrim the grass to fit tightly against fences, patios and borders using a sharp utility knife, cutting from the back where possible. Push galvanised turf pegs through the backing into the ground every 150-200mm around the whole perimeter, and along any seams, to stop the edges lifting or curling.

1 each · Galvanised turf pegs (pack of 100)

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AB-09Brush in the sand infillSpread silica sand infill evenly across the surface, roughly 5-7kg per m², and work it down into the pile with a stiff broom or a power brush. This weighs the grass down, protects the backing from UV, and helps the blades stand upright.

5 each · Silica sand infill (25kg bag)

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AB-10Final brush and tidy upGive the whole area a final brush against the direction of the pile to fluff it up and hide the seams. Sweep up any loose sand or offcuts, and take the old turf, soil and packaging to a household waste recycling centre or arrange a garden waste collection, since general bins usually won't take large amounts.

1 each · Stiff garden broom

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