Lay click vinyl planks on a concrete floor — HomeGraft

Lay click vinyl planks on a concrete floor after checking for damp and levelness, leaving expansion gaps for a neat, lasting finish.

FL-01Check the concrete floor is readySweep and vacuum the slab thoroughly. Check for damp with a moisture meter — if it reads high or the floor feels damp to the touch, you'll need a damp-proof membrane before laying. Run a straight edge across the floor; any dip or high spot over 3mm across 2m needs levelling with self-levelling compound first.

1 each · Moisture meter

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1 20kg bag · Self-levelling compound

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FL-02Clear the room and check the doorsMove out furniture and lift any old flooring back to bare concrete. New underlay plus vinyl planks usually adds 8–10mm of height, so check doors still clear the floor. If a door needs trimming, take it off its hinges and plane or saw the bottom edge — but if it's a fire door, don't trim it yourself, as fire doors need specific gaps to work properly and trimming can affect this.

RULES

1 each · Door plane or fine-tooth saw

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KNOW THE RULES

Fire doors have set clearance requirements under Building Regulations (fire safety). Get advice before trimming one — check with your landlord, managing agent, or a professional.

FL-03Fit a damp-proof membrane and underlayIf FL-01 showed damp, roll out a polythene DPM over the whole floor, overlapping joins by 200mm and sealing them with vapour barrier tape. Roll underlay on top, butting edges tightly with no gaps or overlaps. Trim excess neatly along the walls with a utility knife.

1 roll · Damp-proof membrane roll

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1 10m² roll · Underlay (with or without integrated DPM)

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1 roll · Vapour barrier tape

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FL-04Acclimatise the planksStack the unopened boxes flat in the room for at least 48 hours before fitting. This lets the planks settle to the room's temperature and humidity so they don't expand or shrink after laying. Keep the room at a normal living temperature, around 18–22°C, during this time.

6 box (2.5m² each) · Click vinyl plank flooring

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FL-05Plan your layoutMeasure the room and work out how many rows you need, aiming to avoid a thin sliver row at the end — trim both the first and last row evenly instead. Choose the longest, straightest wall to start against. Set 10mm spacers all round the edges of the room, against skirting and door frames, to leave an expansion gap.

1 pack · Plastic spacers

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FL-06Lay the first rowStart in a corner with the groove edge facing the wall and a spacer between the plank and the wall. Click each plank into the end of the last at a slight angle, then lower it flat. Use a tapping block and pull bar to bring the last plank in the row tight against the wall spacer.

1 each · Tapping block and pull bar

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FL-07Lay the rest of the rows, staggeredStagger the end joints between rows by at least 200mm so they don't line up — this looks better and makes the floor stronger. Use the offcut from the end of one row to start the next, as long as it's long enough. Tap each row firmly along its length so the planks sit flat with no visible gaps.

FL-08Cut around pipes and door framesFor pipes, drill or cut a hole slightly larger than the pipe to allow for the expansion gap, then cut a slit from the plank edge to the hole so it slots around the pipe. For door frames and alcoves, scribe the shape onto the plank using an offcut or profile gauge, then cut it with a utility knife or jigsaw.

1 set · Hole saw set

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1 each · Jigsaw (hire or buy)

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FL-09Fit the final rowMeasure and cut the last row to width, keeping the 10mm expansion gap against the wall. Thinner LVT planks can be scored with a utility knife and snapped along a straight edge; thicker rigid-core boards need a jigsaw. Check the fit before clicking each plank into place.

FL-10Fit edge trim over the expansion gapCover the expansion gap around the room with scotia or quadrant beading. Pin or glue this to the skirting board, never through the vinyl into the floor — nailing through the floor stops it moving and can cause it to bow or lift. Mitre the corners for a neat finish.

6 2.4m length · Scotia or quadrant beading

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1 tube/box · Panel pins or beading adhesive

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FL-11Refit doors and remove spacersRehang any doors you removed, checking they clear the new floor with a few millimetres to spare. Pull out all the temporary spacers from around the edges of the room. Walk over the whole floor — it should feel flat and quiet underfoot, with no movement or hollow spots.

FL-12Clean up and move furniture backVacuum the floor, then clean with a damp mop and a cleaner suitable for vinyl — avoid soaking it, as too much water can get into the seams. Bag up offcuts and packaging, checking your council's rules on disposing of vinyl waste. Fit felt pads under furniture legs before moving everything back in, to avoid scratching or denting the new floor.

1 bottle · Vinyl floor cleaner

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1 pack · Felt furniture pads

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