MEASURING, MARKING AND SETTING OUT

Marking a cut line that stays accurate

Learn to mark a straight, accurate cut line using a tape, pencil and square before you ever pick up a saw.

MC-01Set out your toolsYou need a tape measure, a sharp pencil (not a thick DIY marker pen), and a combination square. A combination square is a small ruler with a sliding handle that locks at a perfect 90 degrees against an edge - it lets you draw a line that is truly square to the edge, not just 'by eye'. Keep the pencil sharp; a blunt pencil line can be 2-3mm wide, which throws your whole cut out.
1 each · Pencil
MC-02Measure twice, from the same endHook your tape onto one end of the material and take your measurement. Then move the tape away, hook it on again, and measure a second time. Beginners often misread which end of the tape is zero, or let the hook slip, so the two readings catching each other out is exactly the point.
MC-03Mark a single sharp point, not a blobAt your measurement, make a small V-shaped mark with the pencil tip, or a short diagonal tick crossing a light line - not a fat dot. A dot 3mm wide means you don't actually know where the true point is, and that uncertainty carries all the way through to a wonky cut. Precision starts here, not at the saw.
MC-04Square the line across using the combination squareSlide the square's ruler out, lock it roughly, then rest the square's handle firmly against the straight factory edge of your material. Line the ruler edge up through your marked point and draw the pencil line across, keeping the pencil tip tight against the ruler the whole way. Press the square hard against the edge as you draw - if it lifts even slightly, the line drifts off square.
MC-05Wrap the line all the way round if neededIf you're cutting something thick, like a length of timber or a pipe, a line on one face isn't enough - the saw needs to follow a line it can see from every side. Use the square to carry the line round each face in turn, checking each new line still passes through your original marked point. A line that only exists on the front face is the classic reason cuts run out of square on thick stock.
MC-06Mark the waste side with an XJust to one side of your cut line, write a small X on the offcut piece - the bit you're throwing away, not the bit you're keeping. This sounds trivial but it's the single most common site mistake: cutting on the wrong side of the line and ending up a blade's width (2-3mm) short on the piece you actually needed.
MC-07Check it before you cutSight down the line from one end, like looking down a rifle - it should look like one continuous straight stroke with no kinks or double lines where you corrected a mistake. Hold the square back against the line one more time to confirm it's still 90 degrees. If anything looks doubled, blurry, or off the edge, rub it out and remark it - it takes ten seconds now and saves a ruined piece of material later.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides