TV-05Drill and fix the bracket — method depends on your wallOn dot-and-dab: never rely on the plasterboard or the dab alone for a full-motion arm, since the leverage will pull it straight off the wall. Drill through the board and the dab gap into the masonry behind using a long masonry bit, then fit long frame fixings (M8, around 100-120mm) that pass through the board and dab and grip at least 40mm into solid brick or block. On solid brick or block: drill with a 10mm masonry bit to a depth of 60-65mm, fit a matching wall plug, and use an M8 coach screw or bolt. On a timber stud wall: drive an M8 coach screw or a heavy-duty wood screw (70-80mm) into the centre of each stud — if the bracket holes don't land on studs, fit a timber noggin (100x50mm) between the studs first. On a metal stud wall: a metal stud alone will not hold a full-motion arm — the constant pulling force will bend or tear the 0.5mm steel. Fit a plywood pattress or timber noggin between the studs using self-drilling metal-stud screws, then fix the bracket to that; never use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud, as it strips straight through. On lath and plaster: the laths are thin and brittle, so locate the timber studs behind them (they're often spaced wider than modern stud walls) and fix into their centres with long screws, or fit a noggin behind for extra support.
RULES