Clean, fill and paint your staircase and spindles in stages so you can still use the stairs safely.
ST-01Clear the stairs and ventilateRemove rugs, stair runners and anything left on the steps. Take down pictures or ornaments fixed near the stairs so they don't get splashed. Open a window at the top and bottom of the stairs so fumes have somewhere to go while you work.
ST-02Protect what you are not paintingLay dust sheets over every tread and along the floor at the bottom of the stairs. Run low-tack masking tape along the wall edge where it meets the stringer, and around any newel post you are not painting. Tape the edge of a stair runner if one is staying down.
ST-03Clean and lightly sand every surfaceWash spindles, handrail, stringers, risers and treads with sugar soap to lift grease and dirt, then rinse with clean water and let everything dry fully. Once dry, key the surface with a light sand so new paint grips. Wipe away all dust with a dry cloth before you move on.
ST-04Fill dents, cracks and gapsFill any dents, nail holes or gaps around the spindle bases with a flexible wood filler. Leave it to cure fully according to the tin, then sand it smooth and flush with the surrounding wood.
ST-05Spot-prime bare wood and filled patchesAny bare wood, filled areas or old knots need a coat of wood primer before top coat, or the finish will wear unevenly. Let the primer dry fully - check the tin's drying time - before you start painting.
ST-06Paint the spindles firstStart at the spindles and balusters, working from the top of the stairs down. Use a small brush to cut in around each spindle, angling it into turned or square profiles. Two thin coats last longer and look neater than one thick one.
ST-07Paint the handrail and newel postsPaint the handrail and any newel posts next, using long, even strokes along the grain. Wipe up drips straight away with a cloth before they set and run.
ST-08Paint the stringersPaint the sloping side panels running alongside the treads, cutting in neatly where they meet the wall and skirting. Use the masking tape edge from step ST-02 as your guide for a straight line.
ST-09Paint alternate risers, top to bottomPaint the vertical riser face of every other step, leaving the rest unpainted so you can still use the untouched steps to get up and down while this batch dries. Work from the top of the stairs to the bottom.
ST-10Paint the same alternate treads and let them curePaint the tread surfaces - the part you walk on - on the same steps you just did, using a hard-wearing floor or eggshell paint made for foot traffic. Leave these steps to dry and cure fully before standing on them - check the tin, but allow at least 24 hours.
1 litre · Hard-wearing floor/eggshell paint for treads
ST-11Paint the remaining risers and treadsOnce the first batch of steps is fully cured and safe to stand on, move onto them to reach the remaining risers and treads you left out. Paint these the same way, then leave them to cure fully before using the whole staircase again.
ST-12Apply a second coat where neededCheck every surface once dry - spindles, handrail, stringers, risers and treads usually need a second coat for even coverage and durability. Repeat the same alternating method on the treads so the stairs stay usable while it dries.
ST-13Remove masking, clean up and tidy awayOnce everything is fully dry, peel off the masking tape carefully for a crisp edge, then lift the dust sheets. Wash brushes with water for water-based paint or brush cleaner for oil-based paint, and let the staircase air for a day before putting runners or rugs back.