Refresh a hallway, stairs and landing

A multi-weekend hallway, stairs and landing refresh: fix structural issues, fill and paint, then fit flooring and a safety gate.

Guides in this project

01Fix a creaking stair 02Fix a loose banister handrail 03Fix a loose banister spindle 04Fill cracks and holes before painting 05Paint a stairwell safely 06Paint a staircase and spindles 07Lay a stair runner 08Fit a stair gate to a banister

AB-01Plan the job and buy everything firstWalk the whole stairs, landing and hallway and note every creak, wobble, crack and hole before you buy anything. Work out the order: structural fixes first, then filling, then painting, then the runner, then the stair gate last. Buy paint, filler, runner and fixings up front, because stopping mid-job for a shop run wastes a day and leaves dust settling on wet work. Budget roughly £150 to £400 depending on stair length and paint quality, and allow 2 to 3 weekends, or 5 to 6 full days back to back, since several phases need drying or curing time before the next can start.

3 each · Dust sheets

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3 roll · Low-tack masking tape

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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AB-02Fix creaking treadsFollow the 'Fix a creaking stair' guide on every tread that moves or squeaks. Do this before any painting or carpet work, because lifting a runner later to deal with a creak will damage the new finish. Check for cables and pipes with a detector before drilling near treads, especially if there is stair lighting wired underneath, and still expect to find something even in an older staircase.

1 pack · Wood screws (various lengths)

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1 bottle · PVA wood glue

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AB-03Secure the handrailFollow the 'Fix a loose banister handrail' guide next. Fix the handrail before the spindles, because a moving handrail can throw spindle fixings out of alignment once they're tightened. Check for cables and pipes with a detector before drilling into any wall-mounted bracket.

2 each · Handrail brackets

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1 pack · Wall plugs (Rawlplug)

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AB-04Fix loose spindlesFollow the 'Fix a loose banister spindle' guide once the handrail is solid. Doing spindles before filling and painting matters, because this repair often scuffs the surrounding paint and plaster, which the filling phase will sort out next.

1 pack · Panel pins

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4 each · Wood glue blocks

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AB-05Fill cracks and holesFollow the 'Fill cracks and holes before painting' guide across the stairwell, landing and hallway walls, now that all the structural joinery work is finished. Let every repair dry fully before sanding, following the drying times in that guide. This phase usually takes longer than people expect, because a stairwell has far more corners, holes and scuffed skirting than a normal room.

2 tub · Multi-purpose filler

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1 each · Filling knife

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1 pack · Sandpaper (assorted grit)

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AB-06Paint the stairwell walls and ceilingFollow the 'Paint a stairwell safely' guide for the tricky high walls and ceiling above the stair drop, using your working-at-height skills for safe access. If a light switch or socket sits in your way, switch off the circuit at the consumer unit and prove it is dead with a tester before loosening the faceplate, then refit it once the wall is dry. Do not rewire or add new lighting yourself; if you want a new circuit or fitting, call an electrician, because that work is notifiable under Part P and is beyond the scope of this project.

RULES

5 litre · Trade emulsion paint

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1 set · Roller and extension pole

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2 each · Paintbrushes

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KNOW THE RULES

Switching off and proving dead before loosening any faceplate is required. Only like-for-like faceplate work is covered here; a new circuit or consumer unit work is notifiable under Part P and must be done or certified by a qualified electrician.

AB-07Paint the stairs and spindlesFollow the 'Paint a staircase and spindles' guide once the walls above are fully dry. Work from the top of the flight down to the bottom, finishing the last tread by the front door so you're not trapped upstairs. Allow the full cure time in that guide before walking on the stairs normally or fitting the runner, since rushing this causes tacky patches and footprints in the finish.

2 litre · Floor and stair paint

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1 each · Spindle brush (small angled)

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1 roll · Low-tack masking tape

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AB-08Lay the stair runnerFollow the 'Lay a stair runner' guide only once the stair paint has fully cured, not just dried to the touch. Check for cables and pipes with a detector before fixing grippers or rods into treads, particularly near the wall edges. Fitting the runner too soon is a common mistake: it traps paint smell against the fibres and can mark the carpet before it's even finished.

4 metre · Stair runner carpet

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1 pack · Gripper rods

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1 roll · Carpet tape

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AB-09Fit the stair gateFollow the 'Fit a stair gate to a banister' guide last, once the runner is down and everything else is finished, so the gate doesn't get knocked or marked by earlier work. Check for cables and pipes with a detector before drilling into the newel post or wall, and use the fixings suited to what you're drilling into, such as a Rawlplug for masonry. Get this checked for a snug, secure fit; a loose stair gate defeats the point of fitting one.

1 each · Pressure or screw-fit stair gate kit

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1 pack · Wall plugs (Rawlplug)

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1 pack · Screws

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