Remove door furniture, sand and clean the door, then apply primer, undercoat and two topcoats for a smooth finish.
PD-01Prepare the roomLay dust sheets on the floor under and around the door. Open a window for ventilation, especially if using oil-based paint. Clear anything nearby that could get splashed.
PD-02Remove door furnitureUnscrew the handle, letterplate, lock and any other fittings with a screwdriver. Put screws in a labelled bag or cup so they don't go missing. Mask any fittings you're leaving in place with low-tack masking tape.
PD-03Take the door off its hingesGet someone to hold the door steady while you tap out the hinge pins, or unscrew the hinges from the frame if they're fixed. Lay the door flat across two trestles or a workbench. Painting it flat gives an even, drip-free finish and lets you do the edges properly.
PD-04Sand the whole doorSand all faces and edges with 120-180 grit sandpaper to break the old sheen and smooth rough patches. Wipe away dust with a slightly damp cloth. If the door was painted before 1960, it may contain lead paint - avoid dry sanding it, wear a mask, and dampen the surface first or use a chemical stripper instead.
PD-05Fill and repairFill dents, cracks or old fixing holes with a flexible wood filler using a filler knife. Leave it to dry fully, then sand flush with 180 grit paper. Wipe the surface clean again before you paint.
PD-06Mask glass and remaining fittingsIf the door has glass panels, run masking tape carefully along the edge of the beading so paint doesn't creep onto the glass. Check any fittings left in place are still well masked. Crisp masking here saves scraping paint off glass later.
PD-07Prime bare wood if neededIf the door is bare wood or MDF, or you're covering a dark colour with a light one, brush on a coat of wood primer. Follow the drying time on the tin before moving on. Skip this step if the door is already painted and in sound condition.
PD-08Apply undercoatBrush on one coat of undercoat, working with the grain. Do the panels first, then the mid-rail, then the outer edges, finishing each section with long strokes in the same direction. Leave to dry fully - usually 4-16 hours, check the tin.
PD-09Sand lightly between coatsOnce the undercoat is dry, rub over it lightly with 240 grit sandpaper to knock off any nibs. Wipe away dust with a tack cloth. This step is what gives a smooth, professional-looking finish.
PD-10Apply the first topcoatBrush on your chosen finish - usually satinwood or eggshell for doors. Work in the same order as before: panels, mid-rail, then edges. Leave to dry fully before recoating.
PD-11Apply the second topcoatOnce the first topcoat is fully dry, apply a second coat for even coverage and durability. Check for missed spots or drips while it's still wet and brush them out straight away.
PD-12Rehang the door and refit furnitureCheck the tin for the full cure time - often 24 hours - before handling the door much. Rehang it on its hinges, then screw the handle, lock and letterplate back on. Work carefully so you don't mark the fresh paint.
PD-13Clean upWash brushes in water for water-based paint, or the correct solvent for oil-based paint. Fold and store dust sheets. Dispose of empty tins and rags according to your council's household waste guidance.