Remove, clean, sand, prime and paint kitchen cupboard doors in one session for a lasting new finish.
PKC-01Clear and protect the kitchenEmpty the cupboards you're working on and clear the worktop underneath. Lay dust sheets on the floor and worktops, and open a window for ventilation. Keep pets and kids out of the room while you work.
PKC-02Remove doors and label everythingUnscrew each door from its hinges with a screwdriver, supporting the door as the last screw comes out. Number each door and its matching position on the cabinet with a bit of masking tape — doors are rarely perfectly interchangeable. Put screws for each door in a labelled pot so nothing gets mixed up.
PKC-03Remove handles and hingesUnscrew handles and hinges from each door and keep the screws with the matching door. If you're fitting new handles in different positions, fill the old screw holes now with wood filler and let it dry fully before sanding.
PKC-04Clean off grease and grimeKitchen doors are always greasier than they look, especially near handles and the cooker. Wash every surface with sugar soap solution on a cloth, then rinse with clean water. Let the doors dry completely before doing anything else.
PKC-05Sand to key the surfaceSand all faces and edges with medium-grit abrasive paper to break the glossy factory finish — paint won't grip a shiny surface. Wipe away dust with a tack cloth. For laminate or melamine doors, don't skip this step or the paint will peel off in sheets later.
PKC-06Prime bare or slippery surfacesApply one coat of a specialist primer if the doors are laminate, melamine, MDF, or a dark colour going lighter. Use a brush for edges and profiles, and a foam roller for flat panels to avoid brush marks. Let it dry for the time stated on the tin before moving on.
PKC-07Apply the first coat of paintUse a paint made for kitchen cupboards — it's tougher and more washable than standard emulsion. Paint edges and detail first with the brush, then flat faces with the roller, working in one direction. Leave to dry fully, following the recoat time on the tin.
PKC-08Lightly sand and apply the second coatOnce the first coat is fully dry, rub over lightly with fine-grit paper to knock back any brush marks or dust nibs. Wipe clean, then apply a second, even coat the same way as before. Two thin coats always look better and last longer than one thick one.
PKC-09Let the paint cure fullyLeave the doors flat and untouched for at least 24 hours before handling, and ideally longer before hanging them back — check the tin for the full cure time. Cupboard paint can feel dry to the touch well before it's actually hardened off. Rushing this step is the most common reason painted doors chip early.
PKC-10Refit hinges and rehang the doorsScrew the hinges back onto each door using its original screws, then offer the door up and screw it back onto the matching cabinet position using your labels. Check the door sits level and closes cleanly before moving to the next one.
PKC-11Refit handles and adjust hingesScrew the handles back on, or fit new ones if you're upgrading. Most modern hinges have small adjustment screws — use these to nudge each door until gaps are even and doors sit flush with their neighbours.
PKC-12Clean up and put the kitchen back togetherWash brushes and rollers in warm soapy water if you used water-based paint, or the correct solvent if not. Fold dust sheets carefully to avoid spreading paint drips, and give the room a final wipe down. Put everything back in the cupboards once you're happy the doors are fully hardened.
1 small bottle · White spirit (if using solvent-based paint)