Paint stripes or colour blocks on a wall

Plan, mask and paint neat stripes or colour blocks, sealing tape edges so colours stay crisp and bleed-free.

PS-01Plan your design and measure the wallDecide on stripe widths or block sizes and sketch the layout on paper first, working out how it meets the ceiling, skirting and any coving. Measure the wall's full width and height, then divide it up so the stripes are even rather than leaving an odd narrow strip at one end. Note which colour goes where so you don't mix up the order when you're up close to the wall.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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PS-02Clear and protect the roomMove furniture away from the wall or into the middle of the room and take down any pictures, curtains or blinds nearby. Lay dust sheets over the floor and any furniture you can't move, and tape the edges down along the skirting so they don't slip. Open a window if you're using solvent-based paint.

2 each · Dust sheets

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1 roll · Low-tack masking tape (for sheets)

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PS-03Clean and prep the wall surfaceWipe the whole wall down with sugar soap to remove grease and dust, then rinse with clean water and let it dry fully. Fill any small holes or dents with filler, sand smooth once dry, and lightly sand any glossy patches so the new paint grips. On lath and plaster walls, check for loose or crumbling plaster and get any cracks filled properly before you start, since a stripe design will show up any wobble in the surface.

1 bottle · Sugar soap

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1 tub · Filler (Polyfilla)

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1 pack · Fine sandpaper

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PS-04Mark out your linesUse your laser level to project a true vertical or horizontal line and mark it lightly in pencil at several points, then join the dots with a straight edge. Double-check every line with the laser before you tape, since a line that's even 5mm out at the top will look crooked by the time it reaches the floor. Mark which side of each line gets which colour so there's no confusion later.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Straight edge or spirit level

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PS-05Apply the masking tapeStick low-tack, sharp-edge masking tape along the pencil lines, keeping the pencil mark just inside the edge of the area you're about to paint. Press the tape down firmly with your fingernail or a plastic scraper along its whole length, since any gap lets paint creep underneath. On lath and plaster walls or heavily textured plaster, tape often won't seal fully into the dips, so expect some touching up later rather than relying on the tape alone.

2 rolls · Low-tack sharp-edge masking tape

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1 each · Plastic scraper

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PS-06Seal the tape edgePaint a thin coat of the existing wall colour over the taped edge and let it dry fully. This 'picture framing' step seals the tape down so the new colour can't bleed underneath it. It matters most on textured or uneven walls, where a bare tape edge is more likely to let paint creep through.

1 each · Existing wall paint (small amount)

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1 each · Small angled brush

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PS-07Paint the stripe or block colourOnce the sealing coat is dry, paint the new colour within the taped area using a brush for the edges and a roller for the middle. Apply two coats, leaving each one to dry fully before the next, and check coverage in good light since a single thin coat often shows the wall colour through it. Keep a wet edge as you work so you don't get roller lines.

1 tin · Emulsion paint (colour of choice)

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1 each · Roller sleeve

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1 each · Paint tray

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1 each · Angled cutting-in brush

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PS-08Remove the tape at the right timePull the tape off once the final coat is touch dry but not fully cured, usually a few hours after painting rather than the next day. Pull it away slowly at a 45° angle, back on itself, rather than straight off the wall, which gives the cleanest edge. If you leave it until the paint is fully hard, the tape can tear the new paint film away with it.

PS-09Touch up any bleed or wobbleCheck every line in good light and use a fine artist's brush to tidy up any small bleeds or wobbles freehand. This is normal on textured or lath and plaster walls where the tape couldn't seal perfectly. Let any touch-ups dry fully before you judge the final result.

1 each · Fine artist's brush

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PS-10Clean up and put the room back togetherWash brushes and rollers in water for water-based paint or the correct solvent for oil-based paint, and let them dry before storing. Fold up dust sheets, dispose of used tape and any dried paint scrapings in general waste, and take part-used tins to a household recycling centre if you're not keeping them. Move furniture back once the paint has fully cured, usually after a couple of days.

1 bottle · Washing-up liquid (for brush cleaning)

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