Put up garden screening on a fence — HomeGraft

Fix garden screening to a sound fence safely, checking height rules first, then measuring, cutting and securing it firmly.

GS-01Plan the job and check the height limitMeasure the length of fence you want to screen and decide how tall the finished screen needs to be, measuring from the ground to the top of the screening. Sketch out how many fence bays you're covering so you know how much material to buy. Do this before you buy anything, in case it changes your plans.

RULES

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Notepad and pencil

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KNOW THE RULES

In most gardens, a fence or screen over 2m tall needs planning permission. Next to a road used by vehicles, the limit drops to 1m. Check with your council if you're near these heights.

GS-02Gather your tools and materialsBuy enough screening (willow, reed, bamboo roll, or rigid trellis/panel) to cover the measured length, plus a little extra for overlaps. Pick up galvanised screws, a staple gun and staples if using rolled screening, and tensioning wire with vine eyes if you want a neat top and bottom edge.

1 roll · Reed or willow screening roll (2m x 3m)

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1 box · Galvanised screws (32mm)

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1 each · Staple gun and staples

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10 m · Tensioning wire

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8 each · Vine eyes

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GS-03Check the fence itself is soundPush each fence post to check it's firm in the ground, and check the rails aren't rotten or cracked. Screening adds weight and catches wind like a sail, so a wobbly fence will get worse once it's up. If the fence belongs to a neighbour or is shared between you, check with them before fixing anything to it.

GS-04Measure and cut the screening to lengthMeasure each fence bay and cut the screening to size, leaving a little extra to overlap joints between panels or rolls. Use a straight edge and sharp knife or shears for rolled screening, or a panel saw for rigid trellis. Wear gloves — reed and willow can splinter.

1 each · Craft knife or garden shears

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1 pair · Work gloves

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GS-05Fit support battens if neededIf your fence rails are more than about 400mm apart, screw a treated timber batten horizontally between the posts to give the screening something firm to fix to. Pre-drill and screw the batten into solid posts, not into thin featherboard alone. Skip this step on close-boarded fences that already have rails close together.

4 m · Treated timber batten (25 x 38mm)

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1 box · Wood screws (50mm)

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1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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GS-06Fix the screening to the fenceStarting at one end, hold the screening against the fence and fix through the frame or edge into the post or batten below, working along the run. Use galvanised or stainless screws so they don't rust and stain the screening. Check the screening is vertical with a spirit level as you go, and keep it tight but not stretched.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 box · Galvanised screws (32mm)

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GS-07Tension and secure the top and bottom edgesFor rolled screening, run tensioning wire through the top and bottom hem and fix it to vine eyes screwed into each post. Pull the wire tight by hand or with pliers before fixing off, so the screening doesn't sag or flap in the wind. For rigid panels, add a fixing at each corner and one in the middle of each edge.

1 each · Pliers

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GS-08Trim, check and tidy upTrim any overhanging screening flush with the top of the fence using shears or a knife. Check every fixing is tight and the screening doesn't move much when pushed. Sweep up offcuts and packaging, and store any leftover screws and wire somewhere dry for next time.

1 each · Garden shears

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1 each · Rubble sack for waste

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