Remove a textured Artex coating — HomeGraft

Score, wet and scrape off old textured coatings safely, testing for asbestos first and taking extra care overhead.

AB-01Test the coating for asbestosTextured coatings applied before 2000 can contain white asbestos (chrysotile) bonded into the mix. Don't scrape, sand or dry-disturb it until you know what you're dealing with. Take a small chip with a wet blade, seal it in a bag straight away, and send it to a UKAS-accredited lab, or use a home test kit. If it comes back positive and you need to strip a large area, get a written quote from a licensed asbestos removal contractor before going any further.

RULES

1 each · Asbestos test kit

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1 box · Disposable gloves

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1 pack · Resealable sample bags

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KNOW THE RULES

The Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012 covers work that disturbs asbestos-containing materials, including old textured coatings. Test before you strip, sand or drill into any coating applied before 2000.

AB-02Clear and protect the roomMove out furniture, rugs and curtains where you can. Cover the floor and anything left in the room with dust sheets, taping them down at the skirting so water can't run underneath. Take down pictures, curtain poles or anything else fixed to the surface you're working on.

2 each · Dust sheets

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1 roll · Masking tape

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AB-03Make the room safe before you wet anythingIf you're stripping a ceiling with a light fitting or rose, turn off the lighting circuit at the consumer unit before removing or masking it — water and bare wiring don't mix. Tape over socket and switch faceplates on any wall you're working on to keep dust and water out. Open a window for ventilation.

AB-04Work out what's underneathHow the coating was applied changes how you should treat it. Tap the surface: a dull, solid sound usually means plaster on brick or block; a hollow sound means plasterboard. Press gently — if it flexes slightly, it's likely dot-and-dab plasterboard, not fixed solid to masonry. In a home built before about 1930, thin wooden laths behind any cracks or in a loft void mean lath and plaster, which is fragile. You're not drilling or fixing anything into the wall for this job, so timber vs metal stud doesn't matter here.

AB-05Score the surfaceWorking in patches of about 1m², break the surface all over with a scoring tool or coarse sandpaper. This lets water soak in and loosens the coating without heavy dry sanding, which throws up dust. On a lath and plaster ceiling, score gently — pressing too hard can crack the plaster key underneath and bring the ceiling down.

1 each · Scoring/scarifying tool

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1 pack · FFP3 dust mask

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1 each · Safety glasses

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AB-06Wet the scored patchSpray warm water, with a splash of washing-up liquid or some wallpaper paste mixed in, onto one scored patch at a time. Leave it 10-15 minutes to soften. On solid brick or block walls you can wet fairly generously, as the plaster underneath is tough. On plasterboard — timber stud, metal stud or dot-and-dab — use less water in smaller patches, since soaking softens the paper face and can loosen dot-and-dab adhesive behind the board. On lath and plaster, use the least water of all and work in small patches, as too much can fail the plaster keys and sag the ceiling.

1 each · Garden pump sprayer

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AB-07Scrape off the softened coatingHold a wide, flexible filling knife or scraper at a low angle and lift the coating off, following the texture pattern. Re-wet any patch that's started to dry before you carry on scraping it. Keep everything damp throughout — this keeps dust down, which matters even more if there's any chance the coating contains asbestos. On a lath and plaster ceiling, support the area as you work and stop straight away if you feel movement or hear cracking; get advice rather than push on.

1 set · Filling knife/scraper set

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AB-08Bag and dispose of the wastePut the wet scrapings straight into a heavy-duty rubble bag or doubled bin bag while still damp, so they don't dry out and release dust. If the coating tested positive for asbestos, bag it exactly as your test lab or supplier instructs and take it to your local Household Waste Recycling Centre's asbestos point, or book a council special collection.

RULES

5 each · Heavy-duty rubble bags

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5 each · Asbestos waste bags (if needed)

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KNOW THE RULES

Asbestos waste must be double-bagged and taken through a licensed asbestos waste route, not put out with general household or garden waste.

AB-09Rinse and leave to dryWipe the surface down with a clean, damp sponge to lift off any last flecks. Leave it a full 24 hours to dry out completely before filling or skimming — new plaster and filler won't bond well to a damp wall.

1 each · Sponge

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AB-10Fill and make goodFill gouges and uneven patches with ready-mixed filler on plasterboard, or plaster filler on solid walls, using a filling knife. For a fully flat finish across a whole wall or ceiling, a skim coat of finishing plaster works best. On dot-and-dab or lath and plaster surfaces, tap first for any loose or hollow patches and re-fix or fill these before skimming, or the new finish will crack.

1 tub · Ready-mixed filler

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1 25kg bag · Finishing plaster

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1 each · Plasterer's trowel

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AB-11Sand and sealOnce completely dry, sand the filled or skimmed areas smooth with fine abrasive paper, wearing your dust mask. Only sand new filler or plaster — never dry-sand original Artex that hasn't been confirmed asbestos-free. Finish with a mist coat of watered-down emulsion or a plaster sealer before you decorate.

1 pack · Fine sandpaper

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2.5 litre · Mist coat / diluted emulsion

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AB-12Clean upVacuum with a fine-filter or HEPA vacuum rather than sweeping, which throws dust back into the air. Fold dust sheets inward to trap debris before moving them, wipe down skirting and windowsills, and give the room a good airing before you take your mask off.

1 each · HEPA vacuum bags/filter

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