Fit tongue-and-groove panelling to a solid brick or block wall

Batten a solid brick or block wall, then fix tongue-and-groove panelling on top and finish it neatly.

TP-01Measure up and order your boardsMeasure the wall's height and width and work out the square metres, then add 10% extra for waste and cutting mistakes. Check the boards are the right profile and length for your wall, and check the wall is genuinely solid brick or block, not a stud wall with a skim finish. Stand the boards in the room, out of their wrapping, for at least 48 hours before fitting so they settle to room temperature and humidity.

1 pack · Tongue-and-groove cladding boards (pack, approx 5m² coverage)

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1 each · Tape measure

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TP-02Strip the wall back and check it's soundRemove any curtain poles, sockets covers you can safely take off, or loose fixtures from the area. Strip off wallpaper and knock back any flaking or loose plaster with a scraper. Solid brick or block should feel firm and dry; if it's damp or crumbly, sort that out before you panel over it, because panelling will trap the problem, not fix it.

1 each · Scraper

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TP-03Mark out your batten linesIf your boards will run vertically, mark horizontal lines for the battens at 400-600mm centres, plus one near the top and one near the bottom. Use a spirit level to keep every line dead straight, and check the top and bottom lines are level with each other right across the wall. Mark stud-like positions lightly in pencil so you can see them once boards go up.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Chalk line

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TP-04Before you drill: check for cables and pipes, and find your stopcockCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones' you might expect. Run a detector over every line you've marked, but still assume something could be there and drill carefully at first — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or outside safe zones. Before you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit first.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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TP-05Fix the battens to the wallDrill through the batten and into the masonry using a 6mm masonry bit, going at least 40mm into solid brick or block, not just the mortar joint. Push a matching 6mm wall plug into each hole and drive in a 60mm screw. Space fixings every 400-600mm along each batten, with at least two fixings per length, and check every batten is level as you go.

6 each · Treated timber battens 25x38mm (2.4m lengths)

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1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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1 pack · 6mm wall plugs (pack of 50)

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1 pack · 60mm screws (pack of 50)

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TP-06Fit the first boardStand the first board in the corner, groove side into the corner, and check it's perfectly plumb with a spirit level before fixing anything. Secure it through the tongue at a 45° angle into each batten using panel pins, so the pin heads will be hidden by the next board. Punch the pin heads just below the surface with a nail punch.

1 box · Panel pins 25mm (box)

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1 each · Nail punch

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TP-07Fit the rest of the boardsSlot each new board's groove over the previous board's tongue, and tap it gently home with a hammer against an offcut of timber so you don't damage the edge. Fix through the tongue into each batten as before. Check with a spirit level every few boards, because a small lean early on gets worse across the wall.

1 pack · Extra tongue-and-groove boards as needed

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TP-08Cut boards around sockets and switchesTurn off the circuit at the consumer unit before you loosen any faceplate, and prove it's dead with a socket tester before touching the terminals. Hold the board in place, mark the cutout, and cut it with a jigsaw. If the socket sits too deep once the board is on, it needs a longer mounting box or an extension spacer, and that's electrical work — get a qualified electrician if you're not confident.

RULES

1 each · Jigsaw

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1 each · Socket tester

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KNOW THE RULES

Removing and refitting a faceplate isn't notifiable work, but altering wiring or extending a socket box, especially in a kitchen or bathroom, can fall under Part P of the Building Regulations. If in doubt, use a qualified electrician.

TP-09Fit the last board and any trimsThe last board often needs trimming lengthways if the wall isn't perfectly square, so measure the gap at top and bottom and scribe the cut to match. Fit corner trim at external and internal corners, and scotia or beading along the top and bottom edges to hide the gaps and battens. Fix trims with panel adhesive or fine pins.

2 each · Corner trim

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2 each · Scotia beading (2.4m length)

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1 tube · Panel adhesive

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TP-10Fill, sand and finishFill any visible nail holes with wood filler that matches the board colour, then leave it to dry and sand it flush once set. Give the whole wall a light sand to knock back any rough edges. Finish with varnish, oil or paint depending on the look you want, and use a water-resistant finish if this is a kitchen or bathroom wall.

1 tub · Wood filler

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1 pack · Sandpaper (assorted grit pack)

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1 750ml tin · Varnish or oil finish

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TP-11Tidy upVacuum sawdust and offcuts from the floor and skirting, and check nothing has fallen behind the panelling before you finish. Bag up offcuts and packaging for disposal. Wipe down tools and put them away, and give the panelling a final wipe to remove dust before it's fully dry.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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