TILING

Remove wall tiles without wrecking the wall

Learn how to remove wall tiles safely, protect the surface behind them, and patch the wall afterwards.

AB-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture and fittings out of the room, or cover them with a dust sheet. Tape a dust sheet along the skirting and up the wall below the tiled area to catch shards as they come off — old tiles shatter and the edges are sharp. Open a window, since scraping and chiselling old adhesive throws up a lot of fine dust.
1 each · Dust sheet (2m x 3m)
1 roll · Masking tape, 50mm
1 pair · Work gloves
AB-02Work out what's behind the tilesTap the tiled wall in several places. A dull, solid thud usually means solid brick or block, or plasterboard bonded tight to the wall with dot-and-dab adhesive (common since the 1990s). A hollow, drum-like sound means a timber or metal stud wall, with solid strips roughly every 400-600mm where the studs sit — run a stud detector or a strong magnet along the wall to find them, since screw heads under the board give regular clicks. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole somewhere already loose or hidden: pale, fine dust means a timber stud, grey metallic swarf means a metal stud, and a soft crumbly give with no resistance suggests lath and plaster (common before about 1930). Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a tiled wall, especially near sinks, showers and baths, so treat every wall as live and full of pipework until you've proven otherwise — a detector helps but can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or thrown off by a metal stud frame. Before you drill, find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit first.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
1 each · Small magnet
1 each · 3mm HSS drill bit
AB-03Cut sealant and remove trimRun a sharp utility knife along any silicone sealant at the edges of the tiled area to break the seal. Prise off tile trim, quadrant beading or edge profiles with a flat pry bar — they usually lift away once the sealant is cut. Doing this first stops the edge tiles cracking or dragging neighbouring ones as you start levering.
1 each · Utility knife
1 each · Flat pry bar
AB-04Remove the tilesStart at a cracked, loose or missing tile so you have an edge to work from. On solid brick or block, use a wide bolster chisel (25-30mm) and club hammer at a shallow angle — the masonry behind is solid, so firm, controlled blows are fine. On plasterboard over timber or metal studs, work more gently: a heavy blow can punch straight through the board, so use a hand scraper or thin bolster at a shallow angle and support the board from behind with your free hand where you can reach. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, go carefully in small sections — the board is only held on with blobs of adhesive, not a full bond, so aggressive chiselling can pop a whole sheet off the wall; stop if it flexes or drums loudly. On lath and plaster, use light taps only — the plaster keys through gaps in the laths, and rough treatment cracks large sections away in one go, so expect to patch or re-skim afterwards. A heat gun can soften stubborn old adhesive on masonry if tiles won't shift with the chisel alone.
1 each · Bolster chisel, 25mm
1 each · Club hammer, 1kg
1 each · Hand tile scraper
1 each · Heat gun (optional)
AB-05Scrape back to a flat surfaceOnce the tiles are off, scrape away old adhesive with a wide scraper. On solid masonry, a thin, flat, well-bonded layer of old adhesive can be left in place — you don't need to strip back to bare brick. On plasterboard, remove any adhesive standing more than about 2mm proud, as ridges will show through new tiling or a fresh skim coat.
1 each · Wide scraper, 100mm
1 each · Wire brush
AB-06Patch and repair damaged plasterboardCut out any cracked or punched-through plasterboard back to the nearest studs with a plasterboard saw, then cut a new offcut to fit the gap. Cables and pipes can still be hiding behind the board you're cutting into, so isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and turn off the water at the stopcock first if you have any doubt. For timber studs, fix the new board with 32-38mm plasterboard screws into the centre of each stud, roughly every 150-200mm. For metal studs, use self-drilling screws made for metal stud framing — an ordinary wood screw or a plastic wall plug will strip straight through 0.5mm steel and won't hold. For a patch on dot-and-dab, re-bed the new offcut with blobs of drywall adhesive rather than trying to screw through a bendy board into the masonry behind. For lath and plaster, screw a plasterboard patch to sound laths, or get a plasterer to re-lath and skim if the laths have crumbled.
1 each · Plasterboard offcut, 900x600x12.5mm
1 box · Plasterboard screws, 32mm, box
1 box · Self-drilling metal stud screws, box
1 bag · Drywall dot-and-dab adhesive, 12.5kg
1 each · Plasterboard saw
AB-07Fill, sand and primeFill screw heads, joints and any small dents with ready-mixed filler, then let it dry fully. Sand flush with fine sandpaper once dry. If you're retiling, prime bare plasterboard or a large filled patch before tiling; if you're painting, apply a mist coat first.
1 tub · Ready-mixed filler, 1kg
1 each · Sanding sponge
1 tin · Wall primer, 1L
AB-08Clean up and dispose of the wasteBag broken tiles and rubble separately from general household waste — wrap sharp edges in cardboard or an old towel first, as they're heavy and can tear straight through a bin bag. Most kerbside collections won't take large amounts of tile or rubble, so check your local council's rules for bulky or construction waste. Vacuum the room thoroughly, including skirting boards and windowsills, before taking the dust sheets down.
1 pack · Heavy-duty rubble sacks, pack of 5

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