Strip old tiles, repair plaster, tile and grout around a bath, then reseal — a multi-day job needing careful sequencing.
RT-01Strip the old tilesFollow the guide 'Remove wall tiles without wrecking the wall' to take the old tiles off. Before you start, scan the wall with a cable and pipe detector — bathrooms often hide pipework and cables behind tiles, even where you don't expect it. If a socket, switch or shaver point sits on or near the tiled wall, switch the circuit off at the consumer unit and prove it's dead with a tester before loosening any faceplate.
RULES1 each · Cable and pipe detector KNOW THE RULES
Isolating a circuit to work around a faceplate is normal practice. But altering, moving or extending any wiring in a bathroom (beyond simple like-for-like) is a job for a registered electrician, and near the bath or shower it is notifiable under Building Regulations.
RT-02Clean the wall back to bare substrateFollow the guide 'Remove old tile adhesive from a wall' to get the wall back to sound plaster or brick. Don't rush this — leftover lumps of old adhesive are the main reason new tiles sit unevenly later. Expect this to take half a day on an average bathroom wall.
1 each · Adhesive scraper or SDS with scraper bit RT-03Patch any damaged plasterFollow the guide 'Repair a patch of blown plaster' for any soft, hollow or crumbling areas you find once the wall is bare. This is where projects often lose a day — plaster repairs need proper drying time — often several days for a deeper patch, so check the bag before you tile — and tiling onto damp plaster causes tiles to slip or adhesive to fail. If more than a small patch is affected, or the wall is persistently damp, get a plasterer in rather than patching repeatedly yourself.
5 kg · Bonding or browning plaster 1 litre · PVA bonding agent 1 each · Plasterer's trowel RT-04Prepare the wall surfaceFollow the guide 'Prepare a wall for tiling' to prime the plaster and mark out your tiling lines, including a level batten to support the bottom row above the bath. Check the wall is fully dry from the plaster repair before priming. If your layout means a socket, switch or shaver point needs moving rather than just loosening, that's a job for a registered electrician (and can be notifiable in a bathroom) — book them before you tile around it.
RULES1 litre · Wall primer (diluted PVA or tile primer) KNOW THE RULES
Moving, extending or adding any socket, switch or shaver point in a bathroom is a job for a registered electrician, not DIY, and near the bath or shower it is notifiable under Building Regulations.
RT-05Tile around the bathFollow the guide 'Tile around a bath' for the main tiling run, using the guide 'Mixing and spreading tile adhesive and grout' to mix and apply adhesive as you go. Work in sections you can tile before the adhesive skins over — usually no more than one square metre at a time. This is the longest phase: allow a full weekend for an average bathroom, more if there's a lot of cutting around pipework or fittings.
1 day · Tile cutter or wet saw hire RT-06Fit trim on external cornersFollow the guide 'Fit tile trim on external corners' before the adhesive fully cures, so trims bed in alongside the last row of tiles rather than being forced in afterwards. External corners around a bath enclosure or alcove are the usual spot for this. Check your cable and pipe detector again before fixing any trim with screws into the wall, not just the original tiling area.
3 metre · PVC or metal tile trim 1 pack · Trim fixing screws and Rawlplugs RT-07Grout the tilingFollow the guide 'Mixing and spreading tile adhesive and grout' again, this time for mixing and applying grout once the adhesive has fully cured — usually 24 hours minimum, check your adhesive's packaging. Grouting too early is a common mistake: tiles can shift and grout cracks later. Leave a full day for grouting and initial cure before moving on.
RT-08Reseal around the bathFollow the guide 'Reseal a bath' to finish the joint between the tiles and the bath itself. Don't use the bath or shower for at least 24 hours while the sealant cures fully — check the tube for the exact time. This is the last phase; once it's done the room is back in use.
1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant 1 each · Sealant smoothing tool Travis Perkins, Tooled Up and Machine Mart links are affiliate links: if you buy after clicking, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. B&Q and Amazon links are plain searches and earn us nothing.
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