Remove wallpaper paste residue before painting

Soften old wallpaper paste with warm water, scrape it off gently, then wash, dry and prime the wall before painting.

RWP-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture away from the walls and take down curtains, blinds and any pictures still on hooks. Lay dust sheets over the floor and skirting, and tape the edges down if the floor is polished or carpeted. You'll be using warm water right next to sockets and switches, so switch those circuits off at the consumer unit first and prove them dead with a socket tester or voltage tester — the switch on the wall doesn't make the terminals safe. Keep them off until the wall is completely dry and the plates are tightened back. Then unscrew the light switch and socket plates just enough to tuck the edges back, but do not remove them fully or touch any wiring.

2 each · Dust sheets

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1 roll · Masking tape

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RWP-02Work out what's under the pasteTap the wall gently. A dull, solid sound means brick or block. A hollow sound usually means plasterboard, whatever it's fixed to behind. If the house is pre-1930s and the wall flexes very slightly under light pressure, it may be lath and plaster, which is more fragile. This changes how much water and scraping pressure you can safely use in the next steps.

RWP-03Soften the paste with warm waterMix warm water with a squirt of washing-up liquid in a bucket. Using a sponge, wet a small section of wall, about 1m square, and leave it for 2-3 minutes to soften. On solid brick or block you can wet more generously. On plasterboard and on lath and plaster, use less water and keep it moving, don't let it pool or soak in, as too much water can blister the paper face on plasterboard or loosen the plaster keys behind lath and plaster.

1 bottle · Washing-up liquid

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2 each · Sponge

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1 each · Bucket

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RWP-04Scrape off the softened residueUse a plastic scraper, not a metal one, to lift the softened paste away in gentle strokes. On solid brick or block you can apply firm pressure. On plasterboard, whether it's on timber studs, metal studs, or fixed with dot-and-dab, work more carefully and keep the scraper angle shallow, as digging in can tear the paper face and damage the board underneath. On lath and plaster, use very light pressure only and stop if you feel the wall flex.

1 each · Plastic wallpaper scraper

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RWP-05Rinse the wall downWipe the whole wall over with a clean sponge and fresh warm water to lift off any leftover paste and soap residue. Change the water often, it goes cloudy fast. Go over each section once, don't scrub repeatedly, especially on plasterboard and lath and plaster.

RWP-06Let the wall dry fullyLeave the wall to dry for at least 24 hours before doing anything else. Open a window or use an extractor fan if you have one, to keep air moving. Painting over a damp wall traps moisture and causes the new paint to bubble or peel later.

RWP-07Check for damage and repair small areasOnce dry, run your hand over the wall and look closely for torn paper face on plasterboard, soft or crumbly patches on lath and plaster, or small chips on brick and block. Fill any small holes or scrapes with a light interior filler, let it dry, then sand smooth with fine sandpaper. Leave anything bigger than a fist-sized patch for a separate plastering job.

1 tub (500g) · Interior filler

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1 sheet · Fine sandpaper (120 grit)

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RWP-08Dust down and apply a mist coatWipe the wall with a dry cloth to remove sanding dust. Apply a mist coat, ordinary white emulsion thinned with about 10% water, over the whole wall before your proper coats of paint. This seals the surface evenly, especially over any filled patches, and stops your final paint colour drying blotchy.

1 litre · White emulsion paint

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1 each · Paint roller and tray set

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RWP-09Clean up and refit fittingsRinse scrapers and sponges in clean water and let them dry. Fold up dust sheets away from the room to avoid spreading dust. Tighten the light switch and socket plates back fully once the mist coat is dry, then switch the circuits back on at the consumer unit.

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