Sand walls and woodwork before painting

Sand walls and woodwork to a smooth, dust-free surface so new paint goes on evenly and lasts longer.

SW-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture away from the walls or out of the room. Lay dust sheets over the floor and anything left in place, and mask sockets, switches and door handles with tape. Open a window for ventilation before you start.

2 each · Dust sheets

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

1 roll · Masking tape

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

SW-02Check the paint and plan your gritIf woodwork was last painted before the 1960s, the old paint may contain lead. Dry sanding throws that dust into the air, so damp-sand instead with wet-and-dry paper and a light water spray, and wear a proper FFP3 dust mask either way. Use 120-180 grit for old gloss on woodwork, and 180-240 grit for previously painted or skimmed walls.

2 each · FFP3 dust mask

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

1 each · Safety goggles

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

SW-03Sand painted woodworkSand skirting, doors and architrave with the grain using 120-180 grit paper on a sanding block, in long even strokes. You're deglossing the surface so new paint grips, not stripping back to bare wood. Lightly round off any sharp edges and sand filled dents flush as you go.

3 sheet · Sandpaper, 120 grit

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

3 sheet · Sandpaper, 180 grit

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

1 each · Sanding block

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

SW-04Sand the walls - method depends on the wall typeOn solid brick or block walls with a skimmed plaster finish, sand lightly with 180-240 grit on a pole sander or hand block; solid plaster can take gentle pressure. On plasterboard walls the sanding itself is identical whether the studs behind are timber or metal - you're only touching the painted or skimmed surface, not the frame - but check joints don't feel bouncy as you go. Dot-and-dab plasterboard needs the lightest touch of all: don't lean into the sander near joints or over the dabs, or you risk cracking or loosening the board. Lath and plaster is older and more fragile, so sand by hand with light pressure, avoid power sanders, and stop if you feel flex - a crumbling patch needs re-skimming, not more sanding.

4 sheet · Sandpaper, 240 grit

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

1 each · Pole sander

Buy:Tooled UpMachine MartB&QAmazon

SW-05Feather sand any filled areasOnce filler in nail holes or cracks has fully dried, sand it flush with 180-240 grit paper. Feather the edges outwards so the repair blends into the surrounding surface and won't show as a bump under paint.

1 sheet · Sandpaper, 180 grit

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

SW-06Remove all the dust before paintingVacuum walls and woodwork with a soft brush attachment, working top to bottom so dust falls onto surfaces you'll clean next. Wipe over with a damp cloth or tack cloth to lift the fine dust a vacuum leaves behind. Let everything dry fully - any dust left on the surface will show through the new paint.

1 each · Tack cloth

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

2 each · Microfibre cloth

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

SW-07Tidy upFold dust sheets inwards to trap the dust before lifting them, and empty your vacuum outside rather than indoors. Wash sanding dust off tools and cloths, and leave the window open a while longer so any remaining dust settles before you start painting.

PART OF A BIGGER PROJECT

Repair a cracked, damaged room before decorating · Redecorate a bedroom from start to finish

Tooled Up and Machine Mart links are affiliate links: if you buy after clicking, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. B&Q and Amazon links are plain searches and earn us nothing.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides

Related guides