WALLS & STRUCTURE

Repair a cracked plasterboard joint

Learn how to open up, reinforce and refill a cracked plasterboard joint so it stays smooth and doesn't reappear.

PJ-01Clear and protect the areaMove furniture away from the wall or ceiling and lay a dust sheet on the floor. Take down anything hanging near the crack. Open a window - sanding filler makes fine dust that gets everywhere.
1 each · Dust sheet
PJ-02Open up and inspect the crackRun a filling knife along the crack to strip off any loose paint, wallpaper and old filler. Check whether it follows a joint between two boards - if the old scrim tape has failed you'll see it once the paint is off. Vacuum out the dust before doing anything else.
1 each · Filling knife 150mm
1 each · Dust mask
PJ-03Work out what's behind the boardUse a stud detector or a strong magnet dragged over the surface to find a line of screw or nail heads - that tells you it's plasterboard on studs, and the spacing shows the stud centres. Tap along the wall: a solid, close sound every 400-450mm usually means dot-and-dab or masonry behind a skim, while a hollow sound between clear points means a timber or metal stud wall. If you're still not sure, drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot - pale wood dust means timber, gritty grey dust means masonry or dot-and-dab, and fine grey swarf means a metal stud. Lath and plaster (common pre-1930s) feels slightly bouncy and hollow, and a pilot hole will show thin wooden laths rather than a flat board.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
1 each · Masonry drill bit 3mm
PJ-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall or ceiling, not just in the usual safe zones. Use a detector, but still treat every hole as if something could be there - detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or hidden by a metal stud frame. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
PJ-05Re-fix a loose board before fillingIf the board itself moves or sounds hollow right at the crack, screw it back to the structure first, or the crack will return. Into a timber stud, use a 38mm coarse-thread woodscrew driven into the centre of the stud, within 150mm of the crack. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw of the same length - never a wood screw or a plastic wall plug, both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab, use a screw long enough to reach the masonry behind the board, typically 60-75mm with a suitable plug, since fixing into the board alone won't hold. On lath and plaster, screw through into the timber joist or stud behind the laths, not into the plaster - the laths alone won't hold a fixing.
1 box · Woodscrews 38mm
1 pack · Metal-stud self-drilling screws 38mm
1 pack · Masonry screw and plug 75mm
PJ-06Undercut and key the crack edgesUse the corner of a filling knife to open the crack into a shallow V shape so the filler has something to grip. Brush or vacuum out all the loose dust and debris - filler applied over dust won't bond and will crack again.
1 each · Small brush
PJ-07Reinforce the joint with scrim tapePress self-adhesive scrim tape centrally over the crack and smooth out any bubbles with a filling knife. This stops the crack simply reopening under the new filler. On lath and plaster, use a slightly wider tape or fibre mesh patch, since old plaster is often uneven.
1 roll · Scrim tape 90mm x 20m
PJ-08Apply the first fill coatLoad a filling knife with ready-mixed joint filler and press it into the taped crack, working along the joint in one direction. Feather the edges out beyond the tape so there's no ridge, and leave the surface slightly built up - you'll take it back when sanding.
1 tub · Joint filler (multi-finish) 5kg
PJ-09Let it dry, then sand lightlyLeave the filler to dry fully - check the tub for drying time, usually a few hours for a thin coat. Sand lightly with 120-grit paper to knock back any ridges before the second coat.
1 pack · Sandpaper 120 grit
1 each · Sanding block
PJ-10Apply a thin second coat and feather the edgesOpen a fresh batch of filler and apply a thin, wide skim over the repair with a 200mm filling knife, feathering well beyond the first coat so the repair blends into the surrounding wall. This second coat fills any pinholes and levels the surface ready for decorating.
1 each · Filling knife 200mm
PJ-11Final sand and checkOnce fully dry, sand with fine 180-240 grit paper until the repair is smooth to the touch. Shine a torch across the wall at a low angle - any dips or ridges show up as shadows, so you can spot and fix them before painting.
1 pack · Sandpaper 180 grit
1 each · Dust mask
PJ-12Prime, redecorate and tidy upApply a mist coat or diluted matching paint over the bare filler, since filler is porous and will show through as a flat patch otherwise. Once dry, repaint or re-paper to match the rest of the wall. Fold the dust sheet inwards to trap the dust, vacuum the floor, and wash your tools before the filler sets on them.
1 tin · Primer/sealer (mist coat) 1L
1 litre · Matching paint

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