Clean, glue, clamp and refinish a split table top so the joint is strong and barely visible.
TR-01Assess the splitLook along the grain and work out if it's a hairline crack or a wider gap, and whether it runs all the way through the board or only partway. Check for any loose splinters that need gluing back in separately. This tells you how much glue and clamping pressure you'll need.
TR-02Protect the work areaCover your workbench with an old sheet or newspaper. Remove the top from its legs or frame if it comes apart easily, so you can work flat. Run masking tape either side of the split to stop glue smearing onto the surrounding wood.
1 roll · Painter's masking tape TR-03Clean out the splitUse a thin, flexible blade or an old feeler gauge to scrape out dirt, old wax and dust from inside the crack. Vacuum the split out, then wipe with a barely-damp cloth. Let the wood dry fully before you glue — trapped moisture stops the glue bonding properly.
TR-04Dry-fit and clamp testWithout any glue, close the split with clamps to check the edges line up flat and the clamps pull evenly along the length. Mark the clamp positions on the wood in pencil so you can move fast once the glue is in — wood glue starts to grab within a few minutes.
TR-05Apply glue into the splitPush PVA wood glue into the split using a thin spatula or an old plastic card, working it in from both faces of the board where you can reach. Aim to coat the whole length of the split, not just the ends. Work quickly once the glue is in.
1 bottle (500ml) · PVA wood glue TR-06Clamp and wipe excessApply clamps at the pencil marks from step 4, tightening evenly along the split rather than just at the ends. Wipe away any glue squeezed out immediately with a damp cloth — once it skins over it blocks stain and finish later and is hard to remove.
TR-07Leave to cureLeave the clamps on for at least 24 hours at room temperature, ideally 18–21°C. The glue may feel dry on the surface much sooner, but it needs the full cure time to reach proper strength, so don't rush this step.
TR-08Fill any remaining gapsOnce the glue has fully cured, check for hairline gaps or spots where tiny slivers of wood are missing. Mix a colour-matched wood filler and press it into any dips, then let it dry following the pack instructions.
1 tub (250ml) · Colour-matched wood filler TR-09Sand the repair smoothSand progressively through 120, then 240, then 400 grit, always sanding with the grain. Feather the repair into the surrounding wood so there's no visible ridge or step. Wipe away dust between each grit.
1 pack · Sandpaper (120/240/400 grit assortment) TR-10Match the finishApply a matching oil, wax or varnish to the repaired area, blending it into the surrounding finish so the repair doesn't stand out. Several thin coats give a better result than one thick coat — let each coat dry fully before adding the next.
1 tin (250ml) · Matching wood finish (oil, wax or varnish) TR-11Clean upRemove the masking tape and wipe down your workbench. Bin used sandpaper and rags. Seal leftover glue and finish tightly so they're still usable next time.
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