Strip old varnish or paint off a wooden table, sand it smooth, then rebuild the finish with stain and protective coats.
AB-01Set up a ventilated workspaceWork in a garage, shed or outdoors with good airflow, or a room with the windows wide open. Lay dust sheets down and clear the table completely. Unscrew handles, hinges or castors and keep the screws in a labelled bag.
AB-02Work out what finish you're dealing withRub a hidden spot with a cloth dampened in methylated spirit. If it softens and goes sticky, it's shellac or an old varnish that will lift easily. If nothing happens, you're likely dealing with modern varnish, paint or lacquer and will need a stronger stripper.
AB-03Strip off the old finishWear gloves and eye protection, and keep the room ventilated as stripper fumes are strong. Brush stripper on thickly, leave it for the time stated on the tin, then scrape it off with a plastic or metal scraper, working with the grain. Do one small section at a time so the stripper doesn't dry out before you scrape it.
AB-04Neutralise and clean the woodWipe the surface down with white spirit (for solvent-based strippers) or water (for water-based ones) to lift off any softened residue. Leave the table to dry fully overnight before you sand — sanding damp wood clogs your paper and doesn't cut cleanly.
AB-05Sand the surface backStart with 80 or 120 grit on an orbital sander, working with the grain, to remove any last traces of finish and level the wood. Step up to 150 grit, then finish with 220 grit for a smooth surface ready for stain or finish. Sand mouldings, legs and edges by hand with a sanding block.
AB-06Clear all the dustVacuum every surface, including joints and legs, then wipe over with a tack cloth or a cloth barely dampened with water to lift the fine dust left behind. Any dust left on the wood now will show up under the new finish.
AB-07Apply stain, if you're changing the colourThis step is optional — skip it if you're keeping the natural wood tone. Brush or wipe stain on following the grain, then wipe off any excess with a clean cloth within a few minutes for an even colour. Leave to dry fully — check the tin, but allow at least 4 to 24 hours.
AB-08Apply the first coat of finishChoose varnish, oil or wax depending on how much wear the table needs to withstand — varnish gives the toughest, most water-resistant surface for everyday dining use. Apply a thin, even coat with a brush or cloth, working with the grain. Leave it to dry fully — check the tin for the recoat time.
AB-09Sand lightly between coatsOnce the first coat is dry, sand very lightly with 320 grit paper to knock back any raised grain or brush marks. Wipe away the dust with a tack cloth before the next coat — don't skip this, it's what gives a smooth final finish.
AB-10Build up further coatsApply two to three coats in total, sanding lightly and wiping down between each one. Thin coats built up in layers give a tougher, more even finish than one thick coat, which can drip and take far longer to dry properly.
AB-11Let the finish cure and reassembleLeave the final coat well alone before use — most varnishes are dry to the touch in 24 to 48 hours but need up to 7 days to fully harden, and oil finishes can take longer. Refit handles, hinges or castors only once the finish has properly cured, not just dried.
AB-12Dispose of waste safelyRags soaked in oil-based stain, varnish or oil can catch fire on their own as they dry. Lay them out flat outside, away from anything flammable, until completely dry, or soak them in water in a metal tin before binning. Take stripper tins and leftover chemicals to your local household waste recycling centre rather than the bin or drain.
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