Repair a wall where a fixing has pulled out

Fix a failed wall fixing safely by identifying the wall type, repairing the hole, and refitting a fixing that actually holds.

RW-01Check the damage and get set upLook at the hole. A small nail hole just needs filler. A crumbled or torn hole in plasterboard, or a chunk missing from plaster, needs patching before you can re-fix anything. Lay a dust sheet below the wall and clear anything nearby, because sanding and drilling both make dust.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Filler knife

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RW-02Work out what kind of wall you've gotRun a stud detector or a small magnet across the wall near the hole. A magnet that grabs onto screw heads every 400-600mm means plasterboard on studs. Tap the wall: a dull, solid thud is brick or block, a hollow sound is plasterboard on studs or dot-and-dab, and a soft, slightly springy feel with fine horizontal ridges under the paint is lath and plaster in an older house. A tiny pilot hole tells you the rest: pale wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud, and brick-red or grey dust means solid masonry.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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RW-03Check for cables and pipes before you drill anythingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board. A metal stud frame will also confuse a cheap detector. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Safety glasses

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1 pair · Work gloves

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RW-04Clear out the old fixing and loose materialPull out the old wall plug, toggle or screw. Use a filler knife to cut back any crumbling plaster, plasterboard paper or loose lath so you're left with a firm edge all round the hole. Brush or vacuum the dust out of the hole so filler can grip properly.

1 each · Stiff brush or small vacuum nozzle

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RW-05Fill or patch the hole to match your wall typeSolid brick or block: press masonry filler into the hole in thin layers, letting each layer firm up before adding the next. Plasterboard on timber or metal studs, and dot-and-dab: for holes under 25mm, push filler in with a knife; for bigger holes, cut a plasterboard offcut a bit larger than the hole, screw it to a stud or a scrap of wood held behind the gap, then skim filler over the join. Lath and plaster: use a bonding plaster rather than ordinary filler, as it grips the laths better and is less likely to crack; press it in firmly and leave it slightly below the surface for a top coat.

1 tub · Multi-purpose filler

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1 tub · Masonry filler

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1 piece · Plasterboard offcut

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1 bag · Bonding plaster

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RW-06Let it dry and sand it smoothLeave filler to dry fully before sanding, usually a few hours for small holes and overnight for a patched repair; check the tub for exact times. Sand gently with fine sandpaper until the patch is flush with the surrounding wall. Wipe away dust with a slightly damp cloth before you fix anything back in.

1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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RW-07Refit the fixing with the right hardware for your wallMove your new fixing point slightly away from the old, weakened hole where you can. Solid brick or block: drill to the size stated on the plug packet, insert the plug, and drive in the matching screw. Plasterboard on timber studs: drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, never into the board alone. Plasterboard on metal studs: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the job; a plain plastic plug or ordinary wood screw will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Plasterboard between studs, and dot-and-dab: use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight, choosing one long enough to pass through the board and, for dot-and-dab, reach the solid wall behind. Lath and plaster: fix through into a joist or stud where possible rather than loading the laths alone, as laths can crack under sustained weight.

1 pack · Wall plugs and screws (masonry)

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1 pack · Wood screws

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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1 pack · Toggle or hollow-wall anchors

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RW-08Touch up and tidy upIf your fixing is for anything heavier than a picture, such as a shelf, a mirror or a TV bracket, wait until the filler has fully cured before hanging any weight on it. Paint over the patch to match the wall once it's dry. Fold up the dust sheet, wipe down your tools, and put spare fixings back in your toolbox for next time.

1 small tin · Matching touch-up paint

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