Lift the broken block paver, clear the old sand, bed in a matching replacement, and re-sand the joints.
RP-01Check the damage and get a matching paverLook at how the block has failed — cracked, sunk, or crumbled at the edge. Take a whole undamaged block (or a clear photo and the measurements) to a builders' merchant to match the size, colour and thickness. Buy one or two spares in case of breakage while you work.
2 each · Replacement block paver (matching) RP-02Gather your tools and protect the areaLay a dust sheet or old towel nearby for debris and put on gloves and eye protection — chipping out block paving throws sharp bits. Check the surrounding blocks are stable, since you'll be working close to them with a hammer and chisel.
RP-03Lift out the broken paverUse a bolster chisel and club hammer to break the damaged block into smaller pieces if it's cracked, working from the centre outwards so you don't chip the neighbouring blocks. Lever the pieces out with the chisel. Wear gloves throughout, as broken edges are sharp.
RP-04Clear out the old bedding sandScoop and brush out the old, compacted sand from the gap down to the sub-base. Check the sub-base underneath — it should feel firm, not soft or wobbly. If it's soft or the block had sunk because of a hollow underneath, that needs fixing before you go any further.
RP-05Top up a soft sub-base if neededIf the sub-base is soft or hollow, add a small amount of compactable hardcore or MOT type 1 stone, then tamp it down firmly with a piece of timber and the club hammer until it's solid. Skip this step entirely if the base underneath is already firm.
1 each · MOT type 1 hardcore (small bag) RP-06Lay fresh bedding sandSpread a layer of sharp sand into the gap, roughly 30-40mm deep before compacting, so the new paver will sit flush with its neighbours. Use a scrap of wood to level it roughly, checking against the surrounding blocks.
1 each · Sharp sand (25kg bag) RP-07Set the new paver in placePlace the new block into the gap and tap it down gently with a rubber mallet, checking it sits level with the surrounding paving. Lay a spirit level or a straight offcut across the joint to check for high or low spots, and adjust the sand bed underneath as needed.
1 each · Spirit level (300mm) RP-08Check the level against neighbouring blocksRun your hand or the spirit level across the joint in several directions. The new block should sit flush, or very slightly above the others, since it will settle a little under foot traffic over the following weeks. Lift and adjust the sand if it's proud or sunken by more than a couple of millimetres.
RP-09Fill the joints with jointing sandBrush kiln-dried jointing sand into the gaps around the new block, working it in with a stiff brush until the joints are full and flush. Sweep off any excess from the surface.
1 each · Kiln-dried jointing sand (small bag) RP-10Tidy up and let it settleSweep the whole area clean and bin the broken pieces. Keep heavy loads or vehicles off the repaired paver for a day or two so the sand bed can settle properly. A light spray with a hose can help the jointing sand bind, but avoid a pressure washer straight away as it will blast the new joints out.
Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Save this as a projectBack to all guides