RH-06Fit the right fixing for your wall typeA cooker hood is heavy, vibrates when running, and gets pulled on when you remove the filter, so it needs a proper fixing whatever the wall. Solid brick or block: drill 10mm holes 60mm deep, fit red or brown masonry plugs, and use two coach screws or heavy-duty frame fixings at least 60mm long. Timber stud wall: drive wood screws at least 60mm long into the centre of the studs, not just the plasterboard, using pilot holes first. Metal stud wall: standard screws and plastic wall plugs will not hold a hood's weight – use self-drilling metal-stud anchors rated for the load, but a metal stud alone often is not enough for this weight with vibration, so fit a timber noggin or pattress between the studs first, or run longer fixings through to the masonry behind if there is any. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use fixings long enough to pass through the dab and grip the masonry behind, typically 75-100mm, not just plugs in the plasterboard skin. Lath and plaster: locate a solid lath with a pilot hole and screw into it, or, if the wall is hollow-sounding throughout, fix through to the masonry or joists behind rather than relying on the laths alone.