Replace a damaged floorboard

Lift a damaged floorboard, cut a matching replacement, fix it safely to the joists, and finish neatly.

FB-01Check the floor type and plan the repairLook along the damaged board and decide whether to replace the whole length or just the bad section over one or two joists. This guide covers solid timber floorboards, not chipboard or OSB sheet flooring found in some newer builds — sheet flooring needs a different repair. Check whether your boards are tongue-and-groove (a groove runs down each long edge and interlocks with the next board) or plain butt-jointed boards, as this changes how the new piece goes in.

1 each · Torch

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FB-02Gather your tools and materialsCollect everything before you start so you're not hunting for tools with the floor open. Get a matching length of floorboard slightly longer than you need, a cable and pipe detector, a pry bar, a padsaw or jigsaw, wood screws, wood filler and sandpaper. Buy timber that matches the thickness of your existing boards — most Victorian and Edwardian boards are 22mm thick, but measure yours to be sure.

1 m · Replacement floorboard (22mm x 125mm, per metre)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Padsaw or jigsaw

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 box of 100 · Wood screws (45mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 tube · Wood filler

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 sheet · Sandpaper (120 grit)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FB-03Find your stopcock and check for hidden servicesPipes and cables can run almost anywhere under a floor, especially near kitchens and bathrooms. Sweep the area with a cable and pipe detector, but still assume something could be there and work carefully to prove otherwise — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or outside the usual safe zones. Before you drill or cut anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off instantly if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's under this section of floor, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

FB-04Lift the damaged floorboardLever the board up from a cut end using your pry bar, working along its length and resting the bar on a joist rather than the neighbouring board. Go slowly near any spot you flagged as risky in the last step. If you see a cable or pipe as the board comes up, stop and work around it rather than pulling it clear.

FB-05Cut out the damaged section over a joistIf you're only replacing part of the board, mark a cut line directly above the centre of a joist so both the remaining old board and the new piece will be supported. Cut squarely across with a padsaw or jigsaw. Recheck this exact line with your detector before you cut, and stop straight away if the saw meets anything unexpected — a cable or pipe will usually feel different from timber.

FB-06Measure and cut the new pieceMeasure the gap accurately and cut your new floorboard to length, allowing a snug fit rather than forcing it. If your boards are tongue-and-groove, plane or saw off the tongue on the edge that will drop straight down into place, since it can't be slid in from the end like the original.

FB-07Dry-fit and trim for a snug fitPlace the new piece in the gap without fixing it yet. It should sit flush with the surrounding boards with no more than a 2mm gap at each end. Plane or sand the edges if it's too tight, and don't force it down — a board that's proud will rock and creak.

FB-08Screw the new board to the joistsDrill a pilot hole at each joist position before screwing, and check once more with your detector at each drilling point — this is your last chance to catch anything hidden before you commit. Fix with two screws per joist, driven into the centre of the joist, not near the edge where the timber can split. Countersink the screw heads slightly so they sit just below the surface.

8 each · Wood screws (45mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FB-09Fill, sand and finishFill the screw holes and any small gaps at the joins with wood filler. Leave it to dry fully, then sand flush with 120 grit paper so nothing catches underfoot. If the rest of the floor is varnished, painted or stained, match the new board to the surrounding finish once the filler is dry.

1 tube · Wood filler

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 sheet · Sandpaper (120 grit)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

FB-10Tidy upSweep and vacuum sawdust and debris from around the repair, including underneath if you can reach. If the old board had paint and your house is pre-1960s, treat any dust and offcuts with care, as old paint can contain lead — bag it rather than sweeping it into the air. Bin the offcuts and put your tools away.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides