FLOORING

Sort out squeaky, gappy and damaged floorboards

A weekend-plus project to fix squeaks, replace damaged boards, fill gaps, sand, varnish and finish skirting for a smart, solid floor.

Guides in this project

AB-01Survey the floor and plan the workWalk the whole room and note every squeak, loose board, damaged section, and gap. Lift a couple of boards to check joist spacing and condition underneath, using your detector first in case cables or pipes run close to the surface. Decide which boards need fixing, which need replacing, and how wide the gaps are, then buy materials for all five phases in one go to save repeat trips. Block out at least one full weekend, possibly two if you're sanding the whole floor, since varnish drying times control the pace.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector hire or purchase
1 each · Notepad and tape measure
2 each · Dust sheets
AB-02Fix the squeaky boardsFollow the guide Fix a squeaky floorboard for every board that creaks but isn't damaged. Work through the room systematically so you don't miss any, and test by walking over each board again once it's done. Doing this before replacing or gap-filling means you're not disturbing fixed boards later.
1 box · Screws (various lengths)
1 bottle · Wood glue
AB-03Replace damaged boardsFollow the guide Replace a damaged floorboard for any sections that are cracked, rotten or badly worn. If you find electrical cables or pipework under a board that look damaged, old, or not properly clipped and supported, stop and get a registered electrician or plumber to check them before you refit anything. This isn't about notifiable work, it's about not covering up a fault you can't see once the board is back down.
RULES
3 each · Replacement floorboards (matching thickness)
1 box · Floorboard screws
KNOW THE RULES

If cables or pipes found under boards look damaged or unsupported, get a registered electrician or plumber to check before refitting boards. This is a safety check, not notifiable electrical work.

AB-04Fill the gapsFollow the guide Fill gaps between floorboards once all squeaky and damaged boards are sorted. Doing this last of the board repairs means you're not filling gaps next to boards you still need to lift. Leave filler to cure fully before you start sanding, usually overnight.
2 tube or coil · Flexible floor gap filler or rope and sealant
AB-05Sand and varnish the floorFollow the guide Sand and varnish floorboards once all repairs and filling are finished and fully dry. This is the slowest phase: sanding can take a full day, and varnish usually needs two to three coats with drying time between each, so plan for the room to be out of use for two to three days. Keep windows open for ventilation and check varnish tins for any fire or health warnings before you start.
1 day · Floor sander hire (day rate)
1 pack · Sanding sheets (assorted grit)
2 litre · Floor varnish
Buy:B&QAmazon
1 set · Dust mask and goggles
AB-06Seal the skirting-to-floor gapFollow the guide Seal the gap between skirting and floor once the varnish is fully cured, usually after at least 24 hours. This finishes the job neatly and stops draughts getting in round the edges of the room. Check the sealant is compatible with your varnish finish before applying.
2 tube · Decorators' caulk or flexible sealant
AB-07Final check and clean-upWalk the room once more, checking every repaired board, filled gap, and the skirting seal for a neat finish. Vacuum thoroughly to remove sanding dust before moving furniture back, and allow the full recommended curing time on the varnish, often a week, before putting down rugs. Total cost for a typical room runs roughly £150 to £350 depending on how many boards need replacing and whether you hire a sander.
1 each · Vacuum cleaner access

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