Replace an integrated LED downlight like-for-like

Swap a faulty integrated LED downlight for a matching one, working safely with the power off and the ceiling checked first.

DL-01Confirm it's a genuine like-for-like swapMeasure the cutout hole in mm (usually 55-75mm across) and check the old fitting's voltage type - mains 220-240V or low-voltage with a separate driver. If the light is in a bathroom or above a shower, check the IP rating marked on the old fitting and buy a replacement with the same or higher rating. Buy the new downlight before you start so the hole isn't left open for long.

RULES

1 each · Fire-rated LED downlight (matching cutout size)

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KNOW THE RULES

Like-for-like replacement of a light fitting is not notifiable under Part P. It only becomes notifiable if you install a new circuit or move the fitting to a new location. In bathroom zones the replacement must keep the same or better IP (water) rating.

DL-02Gather your toolsYou'll need a small screwdriver set, a torch, a dust sheet for the floor below, and something to catch screws. If you'll be working near insulation in the loft, keep gloves and a mask handy for dust.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Insulated screwdriver set

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DL-03Turn off the power at the consumer unitSwitch off the circuit that feeds the light at the consumer unit and remove the fuse or lock off the breaker if you can. Prove the circuit is dead at the light fitting itself using your voltage tester before you touch any wires. Tell anyone else in the house not to switch the circuit back on while you're working.

DL-04Take down the old fittingSqueeze the spring retaining clips on either side of the fitting and ease it down through the hole - it may hang on a safety chain or short wire, so support it rather than let it drop. Take a photo of how the wires are connected before disconnecting them. Undo the connector block or terminal screws and set the old fitting aside.

DL-05Check what your ceiling is built from before fitting anything newMost homes have plasterboard fixed to timber joists - tap either side of the hole and listen for the solid thud of a joist versus the hollow sound of open board. Newer flats and conversions often use metal ceiling channels instead - a magnet or stud detector will pick these up, and a pilot hole brings out fine steel swarf rather than timber dust. In older houses (pre-1930s) you may have lath and plaster, which is fragile and crumbles easily around the hole - work slowly and support the plaster as you go. A solid concrete or block ceiling (some flats and basements) usually means a suspended ceiling below the slab - fix into that suspended grid, not the concrete. Dot-and-dab is a wall-lining method and doesn't apply to ceilings, so ignore it here.

DL-06Fit a support if the hole is damaged or too largeCables and pipes can run almost anywhere above a ceiling, including near light fittings. Use a detector, but still expect something to be there and drill a small test hole to check - detectors miss cables in metal conduit or behind metal-backed board. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, and if there's any real doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first. Into a timber joist, use a wood screw into its centre; into a metal ceiling channel, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing - never a plain wall plug or wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; into open plasterboard between joists with no support behind, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the fitting's weight; into a solid concrete or block ceiling, drill to the plug maker's stated size and depth and use the correct masonry plug and screw.

RULES

4 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixings

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4 each · Masonry wall plugs and screws

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KNOW THE RULES

If the ceiling below is a fire-separating floor between flats or storeys, Building Regs Part B requires the fire separation to be maintained - use a fire-rated hood or cap over the fitting.

DL-07Wire in the new downlightMatch the new connector block to the wiring you photographed - brown to live, blue to neutral, and earth to the earth terminal if one is present. Check the terminal screws are tight and no bare copper is showing. If there's no earth wire at the light at all, the new fitting must be marked Class II (double-insulated) rather than metal-bodied.

RULES

1 each · Terminal connector block

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KNOW THE RULES

BS 7671 (the IET Wiring Regulations) requires a Class II double-insulated fitting where there's no earth conductor at the point - don't fit a metal-bodied light in that situation.

DL-08Push the new fitting into placeFold the spring clips back, feed the fitting up into the hole, and press evenly until the clips grip the ceiling on all sides. Make sure no cable is trapped or stretched behind the fitting. Check the manufacturer's minimum clearance from loft insulation before covering the fitting back over.

DL-09Restore power and testSwitch the circuit back on at the consumer unit and turn the light on at the switch. Watch for flickering and check the fitting doesn't feel unusually hot after it's been on for ten minutes. If you're using a dimmer switch, confirm the new LED is dimmer-compatible - not all are.

DL-10Tidy up and dispose of the old fittingVacuum up any plaster or insulation dust from the floor below. Take the old LED fitting to a WEEE recycling point rather than the bin - it contains electronics. Touch in any paint around the hole if the ceiling was disturbed.

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