Replace gate hinges

Swap worn or sagging gate hinges for new ones, fixing correctly into timber posts or masonry piers.

GH-01Check the gate and plan the jobOpen and close the gate and look for the actual problem: worn or rusted hinge pins, screws pulling out, or the post itself moving. Check what the post or pier is made of, because that decides your fixings — a timber post takes coach screws, a brick or block pier takes plugs and screws. Measure the gate's width and weight roughly, so you buy hinges strong enough for it.

GH-02Support the gate before removing anythingWedge something solid under the gate, or get someone to hold it, so it can't drop or swing once the old hinges come off. A dropping gate can crush fingers or wrench the hinge fixings out. Keep the gate supported until the new hinges are fully fitted.

1 each · Timber wedge or offcut

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1 pair · Work gloves

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GH-03Remove the old hingesUndo the screws holding the hinge to the post first, then to the gate, keeping the gate supported throughout. If screws are rusted or rounded off, drill the head off rather than force it. Check the timber post or masonry pier where the hinge sat — if it's soft, rotten or crumbling, that needs repairing before you fit anything new.

1 each · Screw extractor set

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GH-04Choose the right new hingesBuy heavy-duty galvanised hinges rated for the gate's size — typically 100-150mm T-hinges for a standard garden gate, or ball-bearing hinges for a wide or heavy one. Galvanised or stainless fixings resist rust outdoors far better than plain steel. Buy two hinges for a light gate, three for a heavy or wide one.

2 each · Galvanised heavy-duty T-hinge, 150mm

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GH-05Fix the new hinge to the gateHold the hinge level against the gate rail and mark the screw positions. Drill a pilot hole about 2mm smaller than the screw shank into the timber, then drive the screws home fully. Don't overtighten — timber gate rails can split if you force galvanised screws in too hard.

1 pack · Galvanised wood screws, No.10 x 50mm (pack of 20)

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GH-06Drill and fix into the post — check what's behind it firstIf the post is timber, mark the hinge position, drill a 3mm pilot hole and drive in coach screws with a spanner or socket. If the post is a brick or block pier or a garden wall, check for buried cables first — garden lighting and pond pump cables often run through piers and walls with no visible sign. Use a cable and pipe detector, then still treat the area as live until you've proved otherwise; find your stopcock and check it turns before you start, and if you're in any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling. Drill an 8mm hole to about 50-60mm deep, push in a wall plug, and drive a screw home snugly — not overtight, or the plug spins in the hole.

1 pack · Coach screws, 8mm x 75mm (pack of 10)

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1 pack · Masonry wall plugs, red (pack of 20)

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Masonry drill bit, 8mm

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GH-07Rehang and align the gateLift the gate back onto its supported position, engage all hinge pins or hinge halves, and drive in any remaining screws. Check the gate swings freely without dragging on the ground and that the latch lines up. If it hangs unevenly, loosen the hinge, add a thin timber packer behind it, and re-tighten.

GH-08Test, tidy up and finishRemove the prop and open and close the gate several times to check it swings, latches, and doesn't bind anywhere. Give every screw a final check for tightness. Sweep up any drill dust or debris and dispose of the old hinges and screws.

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