Replace the stop bead on a door frame — HomeGraft

Remove the damaged stop bead, cut and fit a new one so the door closes cleanly, then fill, sand and finish it.

SB-01Check the door and gather toolsClose the door and see where it binds, rattles or has an uneven gap against the frame — mark this with a pencil so you can match it later. Lay a dust sheet under the frame to catch pins and old paint flakes. Have your pry bar, pincers and mitre saw or block ready before you start.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Pencil

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SB-02Prise off the old beadScore along the joint between the bead and frame with a trimming knife if it's painted, so the paint skin doesn't tear the frame face as you lever it off. Work a flat pry bar or old chisel behind the bead from one end and ease it away in short sections rather than one big pull. Keep the old piece — you'll need it to match the profile of the new bead.

1 each · Flat pry bar

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1 each · Trimming knife

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SB-03Clean up the frame rebatePull any pins left behind in the frame with pincers, rocking gently so you don't dent the timber. Scrape off old paint ridges or dried filler so the new bead can sit flush. Give the rebate a light sand so the surface is clean and flat.

1 each · Pincers

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1 sheet · Sandpaper, 120 grit

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SB-04Measure and cut the replacement beadTake the old bead to the timber merchant to match the profile — common shapes are ogee, chamfered or half-round. Measure the hinge side, latch side and head separately, as door frames are rarely perfectly square. Mitre the corners where the bead meets at the head, cutting slightly long so you can trim to a tight fit.

RULES

6 m · Softwood stop bead, per metre

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1 each · Mitre saw or mitre block and hand saw

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KNOW THE RULES

If this is a fire door (a flat entrance door, or a door on an escape route), the stop bead and any intumescent strip must keep the exact gap and depth set by the door's fire-test certificate. Check the manufacturer's fitting instructions before you cut anything — this is covered by Building Regulations Part B.

SB-05Offer up the bead and test the gapHold each length in place by hand or with clamps, then close the door against it. Check for an even 2-3mm gap along the closing edge — enough to let the door shut without rattling, but not so tight it binds. Plane a shaving off the back edge if it's too tight, and recheck.

2 each · G-clamps, small

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SB-06Pin the bead in placeFix the bead into the timber frame with panel pins spaced roughly every 300mm. Keep pins at least 25mm back from mitred ends so they don't split the corner. Punch each pin head just below the surface with a nail punch rather than leaving it flush.

1 box · Panel pins, 40mm, box of 100

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1 each · Nail punch

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1 each · Hammer

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SB-07Fill, sand and finishFill the pin holes and any small gaps at the joints with wood filler. Once it's dry, sand flush with 120 grit paper. Prime any bare timber, then paint or varnish to match the rest of the frame.

1 each · Wood filler, small tub

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1 sheet · Sandpaper, 120 grit

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1 each · Wood primer, small tin

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1 each · Matching paint or varnish, small tin

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SB-08Tidy up and test the doorVacuum sawdust and paint dust from the floor and rebate. Bin the old bead and any offcuts. Once the finish is fully dry, open and close the door several times to check it runs smoothly and touch up any marks.

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