OUTDOOR & GARDEN

Repoint brickwork

Rake out old, crumbling mortar and repoint brickwork with the right mix, matching the original joint finish.

AB-01Check the brick type and the weatherLook closely at your bricks. Soft, handmade bricks (common in houses built before 1919) need a soft lime mortar, or the brick will crack. Harder modern bricks can take a standard cement mix. Only work when it's above 5°C and dry, with no rain or frost forecast for at least 24 hours either side.
RULES
KNOW THE RULES

If your house is listed or in a conservation area, repointing can need Listed Building Consent or council permission — the mortar mix, colour and joint style may be controlled. Check with your local planning department before you start.

AB-02Protect the area and gear upLay dust sheets below the work area and cover nearby plants, windows and door furniture. Wear safety glasses, gloves and an FFP3 dust mask — raking out mortar makes a lot of fine dust. Set up your ladder on firm, level ground if working above head height.
2 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Safety glasses
1 pack · FFP3 dust masks (pack)
1 pair · Work gloves
AB-03Rake out the old mortarUse a plugging chisel and club hammer, or an angle grinder with a diamond blade for speed, to rake out the old, loose mortar. Go back about 20-25mm deep, following the joint lines. Take care not to chip the brick edges (the arris) — go slowly near corners.
1 each · Plugging chisel
1 each · Club hammer
1 day · Angle grinder with diamond blade (hire, optional)
AB-04Brush out and dampen the jointsBrush all dust and loose debris out of the joints with a stiff brush. Lightly dampen the brickwork with a hose or wet brush before pointing — this stops the brick sucking all the moisture out of the new mortar too fast, which weakens it.
1 each · Stiff brush
AB-05Mix the mortarMix a lime mortar (roughly 1 part lime to 3 parts sharp sand) for older, soft brick, or a standard mix (1 part cement, 1 part lime, 6 parts sand) for harder modern brick. Only mix small batches — enough for about 30-45 minutes' work — as mortar starts to stiffen quickly.
1 bag · Lime (25kg bag)
1 bag · Sharp sand (25kg bag)
1 bag · Cement (25kg bag)
1 each · Mixing bucket
AB-06Pack the mortar into the jointsLoad small amounts of mortar onto a hawk or board and press it firmly into the joints with a pointing trowel. Fill the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones, packing it in tightly so there are no air gaps.
1 each · Pointing trowel
1 each · Hawk (mortar board)
AB-07Shape the joint to match the originalOnce the mortar has firmed up enough to hold a thumbprint (usually 30-60 minutes later, depending on weather), shape the joint with a jointing tool. Match the existing style — flush, weathered (bucket-handle) or recessed — so the repair blends in with the rest of the wall.
1 each · Jointing tool
AB-08Brush the brick faces cleanOnce the mortar has firmed up but before it fully hardens, brush the brick faces with a soft brush to remove any smears. Don't wait too long — dried mortar smears are much harder to remove and can stain the brick.
1 each · Soft brush
AB-09Protect the new mortar while it curesCover the fresh pointing with damp hessian or a loose sheet for several days, especially lime mortar, which needs to cure slowly. Keep it out of direct sun, heavy rain and frost — new mortar can be ruined by frost for several days after pointing.
2 metre · Hessian sheeting
AB-10Clean up tools and the siteWash trowels, buckets and mixing tools before the mortar sets hard on them. Sweep up rubble and dust sheets, and bag up any leftover mortar or masonry waste for disposal.

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