DOORS & JOINERY

Scribe skirting to an uneven floor

Cut skirting to fit a wavy floor by scribing the bottom edge, then fix it safely to any wall type.

SK-01Clear the wall and check the floor lineMove furniture away from the wall and lift any old skirting with a bolster and pry bar, prising gently so you don't damage the plaster. Run a 1m spirit level or long straightedge along the floor next to the wall to see how much it dips or rises. Vacuum up dust and pull out any old nails or screws left in the wall. Note the biggest gap you find - this tells you how much extra timber to allow when you scribe the new board later.
1 each · Bolster chisel
1 each · Pry bar
1 each · Spirit level (1m)
1 each · Dust sheet
SK-02Cut the skirting to rough lengthMeasure each wall run and cut the skirting board about 10mm longer than needed at each end, so you've got room to fine-tune later. Cut square ends for butt joints and 45° mitred ends for external corners, using a mitre block or mitre saw. Write the wall it's for in pencil on the back of each length, so you don't mix them up.
3 each · Skirting board (per 2.4m length)
1 each · Mitre block and saw
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
SK-03Mark the scribe line onto the boardHold the skirting against the wall in its final position, tight to the wall face and resting on the highest point of the floor. Tape a pencil to a small offcut of wood, sized so the gap between the pencil tip and the block matches the biggest floor gap you found earlier. Run this scribing block along the floor with the pencil touching the skirting the whole way, keeping it flat and level, so the pencil traces the exact floor profile onto the bottom edge of the board.
1 each · Offcut of wood (scribing block)
1 roll · Masking tape
SK-04Cut the scribe line and test fitCut along the pencil line with a jigsaw, keeping the blade square to the face of the board and cutting slightly to the waste side of the line. Offer the board up to the wall and floor, and shave back any tight spots with a rasp or sanding block until it sits flush all the way along. Trim a little at a time - it's easy to take timber off, impossible to put it back on.
1 each · Fine-tooth jigsaw blade
1 each · Rasp or shaping tool
1 each · Sanding block
SK-05Check for cables and pipes, and work out the wall typeBefore drilling any fixing holes, run a cable and pipe detector over the wall - but treat it as a guide, not a guarantee, since detectors miss cables that are deep, run in metal conduit, sit behind metal-backed plasterboard, or lie outside the normal safe zones. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe; if there's any real doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling and turn off the water before cutting into anything that could carry water. If the wall is a stud wall, work out whether the studs are timber or metal: run a magnet or stud detector along the wall to find a line of screw heads, listen for the dull hollow sound between studs against a firmer sound over the stud, and drill one small 2mm pilot hole - timber dust means wood, fine grey swarf means steel.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
1 each · Magnet stud finder
1 each · 2mm pilot drill bit
SK-06Fix the skirting to the wallHow you fix it depends on what's behind the board. Into solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole roughly 40mm deep into the mortar joint or brick, push in a red plastic wall plug, and drive in a 50-60mm screw. Into plasterboard on timber studs, screw straight into the centre of each stud you marked earlier with a 40mm wood screw - no plug needed. Into plasterboard on metal studs, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a snap-toggle fixing, never a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Through dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a 60-75mm frame fixing long enough to pass through the board and the adhesive dabs into the solid masonry behind. Into lath and plaster, aim for the timber laths where you feel solid resistance, or spread a toggle fixing across several laths, since one lath alone won't hold. Skirting is light, so a fixing every 400-600mm, plus one near each end and joint, is normally enough.
1 pack · Red wall plugs (pack of 20)
1 pack · 50mm screws (pack)
1 pack · 40mm wood screws (pack)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack)
1 pack · Snap-toggle fixings (pack of 4)
1 pack · 75mm frame fixings (pack)
1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit
SK-07Fill, caulk and tidy upPunch screw or nail heads just below the surface with a nail punch, then fill the holes with wood filler and sand flush once dry. Run a thin bead of decorator's caulk along the top edge where the skirting meets the wall, and into any scribed gaps at the floor, smoothing it with a wet finger. Wipe off excess caulk straight away, let everything cure, then vacuum up and put furniture back once the filler and caulk are touch-dry.
1 tube · Wood filler
1 tube · Decorator's caulk
1 each · Nail punch
1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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