Stake a young tree — HomeGraft

Stake a newly planted tree correctly so it stands firm, grows strong roots, and the stake can be removed within two years.

TR-01Check the tree and any permissionsLook at the tree and check it's actually leaning or wobbling at the base - a tree that stands firm on its own doesn't need a stake. If you need to trim a damaged or crossing branch to fit the stake or tie, check first whether the tree has a Tree Preservation Order or sits in a conservation area by asking your council - working on a tree with a Tree Preservation Order without the council's consent is a criminal offence, and so is working on a tree in a conservation area without giving the council six weeks' written notice first. See HomeGraft's guide 'Can I cut down or prune a tree with a tree preservation order?' Also check the branches for nesting birds before cutting anything - the main nesting season runs roughly March to August, and damaging or destroying an active nest is an offence.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

TPO trees need the council's consent, and trees in a conservation area need six weeks' written notice first. Skipping either is a criminal offence. Damaging or destroying an active bird's nest is also an offence - check before any cutting.

TR-02Gather your tools and materialsLay everything out before you start so you're not leaving a young tree half-staked. You'll need a round wooden stake, a mallet, a rubber tree tie with buckle and spacer, and gloves. Have secateurs to hand only if you've already confirmed it's safe and allowed to trim a branch.

1 each · Round wooden tree stake, 1.2m, pointed end

Buy:B&QAmazon

1 each · Adjustable rubber tree tie with buckle and spacer

Buy:B&QAmazon

1 each · Mallet

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

1 pair · Gardening gloves

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

TR-03Choose the right stake positionUse a single low stake rather than a tall one - it should reach no higher than one-third of the tree's total height. This lets the trunk flex in the wind, which helps it build strength naturally. Position the stake on the side the wind usually blows from (south-west in most of the UK), about 100-150mm from the trunk, so the tree leans away from the stake rather than rubbing against it.

TR-04Drive the stake into the groundBefore you drive the stake in, think about what might be buried nearby - garden power cables for lighting, outdoor tap pipework, or sprinkler lines are often shallow. If you know of anything nearby, dig a shallow trial hole by hand first rather than driving the stake in blind. Angle the stake at roughly 45 degrees, leaning away from the tree, and drive it in with the mallet to about 600mm deep, far enough to stay firm when pushed.

TR-05Fit the tree tieWrap the tree tie around the trunk and stake, with the rubber spacer sitting between them so the bark can't rub on the wood. Buckle it firmly enough to hold the trunk steady but loose enough to allow a little movement - it shouldn't bite into the bark. Fix the tie to the stake with a small nail or screw so it can't slide down over time.

1 each · Galvanised nail, 25mm

Buy:Travis PerkinsB&QAmazon

TR-06Mulch and waterSpread a layer of mulch or bark chippings around the base of the tree, about 50-75mm deep, keeping it clear of the trunk itself to avoid rot. Water the tree well straight after staking to settle the roots.

1 bag · Bark mulch, 50 litre bag

Buy:B&QAmazon

TR-07Tidy up and check back regularlyClear away any offcuts and put your tools away. Check the tie every few months - loosen it as the trunk thickens, since a tight tie can strangle the bark as the tree grows. Most young trees are ready to have the stake removed after one to two growing seasons, once the roots have properly established.

Travis Perkins and Tooled Up links are affiliate links: if you buy after clicking, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. B&Q and Amazon links are plain searches and earn us nothing.

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