Lay garden edging — HomeGraft

Mark a straight line, dig a shallow trench, and fix timber edging to hold it in place all summer.

GE-01Plan and mark the lineWalk the route first and decide exactly where the edging will sit. Pull a string line taut between two pegs, or use a spray line marker, to draw the path on the grass or soil. Keep curves gentle, since straight boards won't follow tight bends. If the line runs close to a boundary with a neighbour, it's worth checking they're happy with where it sits before you dig.

1 set · String line and pegs

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1 can · Spray line marker

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1 each · Tape measure

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GE-02Dig the trenchDig a trench along the marked line, about 100mm wide and 100-150mm deep depending on how tall your edging is. Keep the spade vertical on the lawn side so you get a crisp, straight edge. Lift turf out carefully in sections if you plan to reuse it elsewhere in the garden.

1 each · Spade

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1 each · Garden fork

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1 each · Wheelbarrow (optional, for spoil)

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GE-03Firm and level the trench baseTread the loose soil down firmly along the base of the trench so the edging won't sink later. Lay a straight batten in the trench and check it with a spirit level, aiming for a consistent depth rather than a perfectly flat line, since gardens are rarely level. If the soil is soft or uneven, add a 20-30mm layer of sharp sand and rake it smooth.

1 25kg bag · Sharp sand

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1 each · Rake

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GE-04Cut edging boards to lengthMeasure the trench in sections and cut treated timber edging boards to fit, using a hand saw or circular saw. Plan cuts so joins between boards land on a stake position, never in mid-span, so every joint is supported. Wear gloves when handling treated timber, and wash your hands after cutting it.

3 length · Treated timber gravel board (150 x 22mm, 1.8m length)

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1 each · Hand saw or circular saw

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1 pair · Work gloves

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GE-05Position and stake the first boardSet the first board into the trench on edge, following your marked line. Check it stands upright with a spirit level, then drive a wooden stake into the ground tight against the back of the board every 500-600mm. Knock each stake down until its top sits just below the top of the edging, so it stays hidden once finished.

10 each · Wooden stake (38 x 38 x 300mm)

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1 each · Rubber mallet

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GE-06Fix the board to each stakeScrew through each stake into the board, using two galvanised or stainless screws per stake so the fixings won't rust outdoors. Recheck the board is level and still following the line before moving on, since it's much easier to adjust now than later.

1 box · Galvanised outdoor screws (50mm)

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1 each · Drill driver

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GE-07Continue along the line and join boardsRepeat the process for each remaining section, butting each new board up against the last at a shared stake so both are supported together. Check the overall run with a long batten or your string line every metre or so, and nudge stakes if the line has started to wander.

2 length · Treated timber gravel board (150 x 22mm, 1.8m length)

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6 each · Wooden stake (38 x 38 x 300mm)

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GE-08Backfill and firm the edgingBackfill soil on both sides of the edging and firm it down with your boot or the flat end of a spade handle, so the boards can't rock side to side. Relay any turf you lifted earlier, or top up with fresh topsoil and grass seed on the lawn side.

1 25kg bag · Topsoil

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1 box · Grass seed

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GE-09Clean up and check the finished jobSweep or brush any soil off paths and patios before it dries and stains them. Walk the full length of the edging, checking every stake is firm and no screw heads are sticking up where they could catch a mower or bare feet. Rinse tools and put them away.

1 each · Stiff brush

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