Stop a pipe creaking under the floorboards

Find why a floorboard pipe creaks, then clip, cushion or reclip it to stop the noise for good.

AB-01Find the creak and gather your toolsWalk over the floor, or run the heating, until you pinpoint exactly which board sits above the noise. Mark the spot with masking tape so you don't lose it. Gather a torch, screwdriver, craft knife, pipe insulation and a couple of plastic-lined pipe clips before you lift anything.

1 each · Torch

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1 roll · Masking tape

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AB-02Lift the floorboardLift the marked board using your usual method, working carefully around the joists either side. Set it down flat somewhere so it doesn't crack or lose its screws. Keep your torch handy so you can see into the void straight away.

AB-03Find what's causing the noiseShine the torch along the pipe run under the gap. Look for the pipe touching the edge of a joist or notch, a clip that's loose or missing, or one that's gripping the pipe far too tightly. Copper and plastic pipe both move slightly as water heats up, so any bare contact with wood will tap or creak.

AB-04Free up a pipe that's clipped too tightlyIf a metal clip is gripping the pipe hard against the joist, loosen its screw a turn or two so the pipe can move very slightly inside it. Don't take the clip off completely — it's still there to stop the pipe sagging or swinging sideways.

1 each · Screwdriver

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AB-05Add foam insulation where the pipe touches timberSlit a length of foam pipe insulation lengthways with a craft knife and wrap it around the pipe wherever it rubs a joist, notch, or another pipe. This cushions the pipe so the tapping stops even as it expands and contracts. It grips itself in place once wrapped, so no tape is needed.

2 each · Foam pipe insulation lagging, 15mm x 1m

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1 each · Craft knife

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AB-06Fit a new pipe clip — drill carefullyPipes and cables can run almost anywhere under a floor, not just where you'd expect. Use a cable and pipe detector to check the joist before you drill, but still assume something could be there — detectors miss deep cables, armoured cable and anything boxed in metal conduit. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you nick a pipe, and if there's any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first. Drill a pilot hole into the centre of the joist next to the pipe and screw in a plastic-lined pipe clip, snug but not tight — the pipe still needs room to move.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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2 each · Plastic-lined pipe clip, 15mm

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4 each · Wood screws, 25mm

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1 each · Pilot drill bit, 2mm

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1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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AB-07Test the fix before closing upRun the hot tap or put the heating on for a few minutes and listen for the creak while you're still down there. Check any pipe joints you've disturbed for drips or weeping. If it's quiet and dry, you're ready to put the board back.

AB-08Refit the floorboardLower the board back into place, lining it up with its original screw holes where you can. Screw it down rather than nailing it, so it's easy to lift again if you ever need to check the pipe. Check it sits flush and doesn't rock underfoot.

4 each · Wood screws, 40mm

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AB-09Tidy upVacuum any sawdust, foam off-cuts or grit from the room and the floor void. Wipe down your tools and put the torch and drill away. Bin any leftover insulation off-cuts.

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