Straighten a leaning fence post

Dig out, straighten and re-set a leaning fence post safely, checking for buried pipes and cables before you dig.

FP-01Work out why the post is leaningPush the post gently and watch where it moves. If it snaps or bends at ground level the timber has rotted through. If the whole post rocks but feels solid, the concrete footing has likely cracked or loosened. Knowing which one you have decides whether you repair the base or just re-set it.

FP-02Gather your tools and materialsYou'll need a spade, a post hole digger or crowbar, a spirit level, string line, wooden battens for temporary bracing, and either postcrete or a metal post support depending on the repair. Wear gloves and safety goggles, especially when breaking out old concrete.

1 each · Post hole digger

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1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · String line

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1 pair · Work gloves

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1 each · Safety goggles

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FP-03Check for buried pipes and cables before you digGarden cables and pipes can run almost anywhere, especially near an outside tap, garden lighting or a shed supply. A cable/pipe detector helps but can miss deep or unusual runs, so dig the first 150mm by hand and slowly, feeling for resistance rather than forcing the spade in. Know where your stopcock is (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut off the water fast if you nick a pipe. If you're at all unsure what's below, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before digging any further.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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FP-04Dig out and expose the post baseDig a clear space around the post, removing soil and old concrete down to the full depth of the footing, usually 450-600mm. Break up old concrete with a club hammer and bolster if needed. Lift out any loose lumps so you have a clean hole to work with.

1 each · Club hammer

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1 each · Bolster chisel

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FP-05Choose your repair methodIf the timber is rotted below ground but sound above, fit a metal post support (spur) bolted to the good timber, so the post no longer sits in wet soil. If the timber itself is sound and only the footing has failed, you can straighten and re-set the same post in fresh concrete or postcrete.

1 each · Metal post support (spur)

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FP-06Straighten the post and brace itStand the post upright in the hole and check it's plumb with a spirit level on two faces at right angles. Nail temporary wooden battens diagonally from the post to stakes driven into the ground, holding it dead straight while you work. Recheck plumb after fitting each brace.

3 each · Wooden battens

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3 each · Wooden stakes

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FP-07Set the new footingAdd a layer of gravel to the base of the hole for drainage, then pour in postcrete or a wet concrete mix around the post, following the pack instructions for water quantity. Postcrete sets hard in around 10 minutes, so work quickly and check plumb again before it goes off.

2 bag · Postcrete (20kg bag)

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1 bag · Gravel (bag)

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FP-08Hold the post plumb while it curesLeave the braces in place and don't put any weight on the post yet. Postcrete reaches a safe working strength within an hour but takes longer to fully harden, so avoid attaching fence panels or leaning on it until then. Check the post hasn't shifted once the mix has gone off.

FP-09Remove braces and refit the fenceOnce the footing has fully cured, remove the temporary battens and stakes. Reattach fence panels or rails to the post using galvanised screws or nails suited to outdoor use, checking the fence line is straight along its run.

1 box · Galvanised fence screws (box)

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FP-10Tidy upBreak up and bag any leftover concrete or rubble for disposal. Backfill and firm the soil around the base of the post. Clean tools before you put them away, especially anything that touched wet cement.

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