Trim a door so it clears new flooring — HomeGraft

Take a door off, mark and cut it to clear new flooring, then reseal the edge before rehanging.

DR-01Work out how much to trimLay the new flooring (or a sample piece plus underlay) up to the door and measure the total finished height. You need a gap of 6-10mm under the door once everything is fitted, so it clears carpet pile or opens without dragging on hard flooring. Measure this at both the hinge side and the handle side, since old floors are rarely level.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 piece · Sample of new flooring plus underlay

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DR-02Take the door off its hingesGet someone to hold the door steady, then unscrew the hinges from the door side (not the frame) and lift it clear. Lay it flat on a workbench or two trestles, face up, somewhere stable and well supported along its length.

1 each · Screwdriver (matching hinge screws)

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1 set · Workbench or pair of trestles

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DR-03Mark the new cut lineMeasure up from the bottom of the door by the amount you worked out in step 1, and mark this at both edges. If the floor isn't level, use a thin packer to copy the slope onto the door so the cut follows the floor, not a straight line. Join the marks with a straight edge to give one clean, accurate cutting line all the way across.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Straight edge or spirit level

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1 each · Thin wood packer/offcut

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DR-04Set up for a clean, splinter-free cutStick a strip of masking tape along the cut line on both faces of the door — this stops the surface splintering as the blade exits. Clamp the door firmly so it can't shift while you cut, with the offcut end unsupported so it can drop away freely. If the door is a fire door (common on flats and some houses), check the manufacturer's label first: most fire doors can only be trimmed by a few millimetres before the fire rating is lost.

RULES

1 roll · Masking tape

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2 each · F-clamps or G-clamps

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KNOW THE RULES

Fire doors have strict trimming limits set by their certification (usually only a few mm off the bottom). Cutting more than this invalidates the fire rating and can breach Building Regulations Part B. Check the label or certificate before cutting a fire door.

DR-05Cut along the lineCut with the door's better face down if using a circular saw, since the blade tears the top face more than the underside. Keep the saw's edge guide or a clamped straight batten running against the base plate so the cut stays true. Go slowly and let the saw do the work — don't force it through.

1 each · Circular saw with fine-tooth blade

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1 each · Straight batten (as a saw guide)

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DR-06Smooth and seal the cut edgeSand the cut edge smooth and ease the sharp corners slightly with sandpaper. Seal the bare wood with primer, paint or varnish to match the rest of the door — this stops the exposed timber soaking up moisture and warping, and it's essential if the door is painted, veneered or a fire door.

1 sheet · Sandpaper (120 grit)

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1 small tin · Primer or matching paint/varnish

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1 each · Small paintbrush

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DR-07Re-hang the door and check the fitLet any paint or varnish dry fully before rehanging. Get someone to help lift the door back into place, line up the hinges, and screw them back in. Open and close the door over the new flooring to check it clears properly at both edges — trim a little more off if it still catches anywhere.

1 each · Screwdriver (matching hinge screws)

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DR-08Tidy upVacuum up all sawdust from the work area and the floor, especially if new flooring is about to be laid on it. Keep or dispose of the offcut, and wipe down tools before putting them away.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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1 each · Dust sheet or bin bag

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