FLOORING

Deal with a damp concrete floor before laying flooring

Test a concrete floor for damp, treat it with the right damp-proof membrane, and let it cure properly before laying flooring.

DF-01Work out what kind of damp you've gotCheck whether the moisture is rising damp from the ground, penetrating damp from outside, or just a new slab still drying out. Look outside for high ground levels against the wall, blocked airbricks, or leaking guttering nearby. A concrete slab laid without a damp-proof membrane, common in houses built before the 1970s, will let ground moisture through no matter what you do on top, so it pays to know the cause before you start.
DF-02Do a quick moisture checkTape a 300mm square of clear plastic sheeting tightly to the floor with duct tape, sealing every edge so no air can get underneath. Leave it for 48-72 hours, then lift a corner and check the underside and the concrete for condensation or a darker, damp patch. This only tells you a problem exists, not whether the floor is dry enough for new flooring.
1 sheet · Clear plastic sheeting
1 roll · Duct tape
DF-03Run a proper relative humidity (RH) testBefore drilling, check the floor with a cable and pipe detector, then still treat it as if something's there. Solid floors often hide underfloor heating pipes or electric cables chased into the screed, and detectors can miss anything deep or shielded. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely before you start so you can cut the water off fast if you hit a pipe; if you're at all unsure, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit first. Drill a 25mm hole about 40mm deep in two or three spots away from walls, insert the hygrometer probes, seal them, and leave for at least 72 hours before reading the result against your flooring manufacturer's stated limit.
1 kit · In-situ RH test kit (hygrometer probes, pack of 3)
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 25mm
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
DF-04Strip and prepare the floor surfaceRemove any old flooring, underlay and adhesive residue back to bare concrete. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly, then fill cracks, holes or uneven patches with a quick-set repair mortar. Let the mortar cure fully, usually about 24 hours, before you move on.
1 each · Floor scraper
1 tub · Quick-set repair mortar, 5kg tub
DF-05Apply a liquid damp-proof membrane (DPM)Roller on a two-part epoxy DPM across the whole floor, working in manageable sections. Lap it up the wall by about 100mm behind where the skirting will sit, so moisture can't creep in at the edges. Apply a second coat once the first has gone off, check the tin but usually 4-24 hours, and wear gloves and a respirator mask with the room well ventilated as the fumes are strong.
1 kit · Liquid DPM epoxy kit, 5L (2 coats, approx 20m²)
1 set · Roller and tray set
1 roll · Masking tape
1 pack · Disposable gloves and respirator mask
DF-06Or lay a DPM membrane sheet insteadIf you're laying a floating floor like laminate or engineered wood, a polythene DPM sheet under the underlay is often simpler than liquid. Roll out 1200-gauge polythene, overlap joints by at least 150mm and tape them, then turn the sheet up the wall by 150mm behind the skirting. Trim it back neatly once the skirting is refitted.
1 roll · Polythene DPM sheet, 1200 gauge
1 roll · DPM jointing tape
DF-07Let it cure properly before covering itLeave a liquid DPM to cure fully before laying anything on top. Check the tin, but expect at least 16-24 hours before light foot traffic and longer before flooring goes down. Keep the room ventilated and above 10°C while it cures, as DPMs cure slowly, or not at all, in a cold room.
DF-08Refit the skirting and finish the edgesOnce the DPM has cured, refit or replace the skirting boards, trimming any excess membrane neatly behind them. This closes off the edge properly and hides the join, ready for your flooring.
1 tube · Skirting board fixing adhesive
DF-09Clean up and dispose of waste properlyClean rollers and brushes immediately with the solvent stated on the tin, as cured epoxy ruins tools if left. Dispose of empty tins, offcuts and rags according to your council's guidance for hazardous waste, and keep the room ventilated until all fumes have cleared.
1 bottle · Tool cleaning solvent

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