Assemble a flatpack bookcase

Assemble a flatpack bookcase and fix an anti-tip strap to the wall so it can't topple over.

FB-01Clear a flat work areaMove furniture aside and lay down cardboard or an old blanket to protect the flooring. Unpack all the panels and lean them against a wall so you can see everything. Check the parts against the instruction sheet before you start.

1 each · Cardboard or old blanket

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FB-02Sort the hardware and toolsTip out the bag of screws, dowels, cam locks and shelf pins and group them by type. Get a cross-head screwdriver, a rubber mallet and the hex key that usually comes in the box. Working with sorted hardware stops you hunting for one dowel halfway through.

1 each · Cross-head screwdriver

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1 each · Rubber mallet

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FB-03Build the carcassFit the side panels to the top and bottom shelves using the cam locks and dowels, following the numbered steps in your instructions. Tap joints gently home with the rubber mallet rather than forcing them by hand. Keep the carcass lying flat until every joint is fully tightened.

FB-04Fit the back panel and square it upLay the hardboard or MDF back panel over the carcass and pin or staple it into place, starting at one corner. Check the whole unit is square by measuring corner to corner both ways — the two measurements should match. A square back panel keeps the bookcase rigid and stops it racking sideways.

FB-05Fit the shelf pins and shelvesPush the small shelf-support pegs into matching holes on both side panels, level on each side. Lower the adjustable shelves onto the pegs. Leave the final shelf spacing until you know roughly what you're storing.

FB-06Stand the bookcase up and position itWith help if it's tall or heavy, stand the bookcase upright and move it to its final spot against the wall. Check it's level side to side and front to back with a spirit level, adjusting any levelling feet. Push it back so it sits flat against the wall, ready to be fixed.

1 each · Spirit level

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FB-07Decide on an anti-tip fixingAny bookcase taller than it is wide can tip forward if a child climbs it or it's loaded top-heavy. Fixing it to the wall with an anti-tip strap or bracket is standard practice, especially in homes with children or pets. Most flatpack bookcases include a strap and bracket for exactly this — if not, buy one before you start drilling.

1 each · Furniture anti-tip strap kit

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FB-08Work out what's behind the wallSolid brick or block feels hard all over and dust from a small test hole is brick-red or grey and gritty. A stud wall sounds hollow when you knock it, except where the studs are. Run a stud detector or a magnet along the wall to find a line of screw or nail heads — that line is a timber stud. If a small pilot hole brings out fine steel swarf instead of timber dust or masonry dust, you've found a metal stud.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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FB-09Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones'. Use a detector, but still assume something could be there even if it shows nothing — detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and metal studs can confuse cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start. If you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

FB-10Fix the strap — solid brick or block wallDrill with a masonry bit sized to match your wall plug, typically 6mm or 7mm, to a depth of 40-45mm. Insert a wall plug, then drive a screw through the bracket into the plug until it's snug — don't overtighten and crush the plug. This gives a strong fixing that will hold the strap under normal tipping force.

2 each · 6mm wall plugs

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2 each · 40mm screws

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FB-11Fix the strap — plasterboard on timber studsLocate the centre of a timber stud using your detector or the screw-head line, and aim to fix the bracket there. Drive a 40-50mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud — no plug needed in solid timber. This is the strongest fixing you can get in a stud wall, so use it whenever a stud lines up with the bracket.

2 each · 40mm wood screws

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FB-12Fix the strap — plasterboard on metal studsNever use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud — it will strip straight through the thin steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw driven straight into the steel track, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor if you're fixing between studs. A metal stud fixing alone won't reliably hold constant pulling loads, so for a heavy or very tall bookcase, fix into a timber noggin between the studs or find the stud itself.

2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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FB-13Fix the strap — dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard is stuck to the masonry behind with blobs of adhesive, leaving a gap of anywhere from 10mm to 40mm. Use a long fixing — a frame fixing or long masonry screw with a plug, at least 75mm — so it passes through the plasterboard and gap and grips solidly in the masonry behind. Drill a pilot hole first to check the depth of the void before committing to the final hole.

2 each · 75mm frame fixings

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FB-14Fix the strap — lath and plaster wallLath and plaster is old, brittle, and found mainly in pre-1930s properties. Find the timber uprights behind the laths with your detector, since the plaster and thin laths alone won't hold a fixing. Screw into the solid timber behind, and expect some cracking of the old plaster around the hole — a bit of filler afterwards will tidy this up.

2 each · 40mm wood screws

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1 small tub · Filler

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FB-15Attach the strap and check it's tightScrew the other end of the anti-tip strap to the back of the bookcase, near the top, following the kit's instructions. Pull gently on the top of the bookcase to check the strap is taut and the wall fixing feels solid. Adjust the strap length if there's any slack.

FB-16Load the shelves and tidy upLoad heavier items on the lower shelves and lighter items higher up, to keep the bookcase's weight low and stable. Break down the flatpack packaging for recycling and vacuum up any dust from drilling. Put your tools and spare fixings away somewhere you'll find them again.

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