Assemble a flatpack chest of drawers

Assemble a flatpack chest of drawers from panels to a finished unit, then anchor it to the wall to stop it tipping.

CD-01Clear a space and unpack the flatpackClear a flat area about 2m x 2m and lay down an old blanket or dust sheet to protect the panels and the floor. Open the box carefully and lay every panel flat, sorted roughly by size. Check the parts list in the instruction leaflet against what you've actually got before you start building.

1 each · Old blanket or dust sheet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CD-02Sort and count the fittingsTip all the screws, cam locks, dowels and hinges into a tray or a muffin tin so nothing rolls away. Match each fitting type against the parts diagram in the instructions. Flatpack kits sometimes include a spare screw or two, but don't assume you're covered if a few go missing.

CD-03Build the carcass sides and basePush the dowels into their pre-drilled holes, then join the side panels to the base and top rail using the cam locks. Turn each cam lock with a screwdriver until it clicks tight, but don't fully tighten any of them yet. Leave the frame slightly loose until it's square.

CD-04Fit the back panel and square the frameSlide the thin back panel into its groove, or pin it in place with the small panel pins provided. This panel is what holds the whole unit square, so measure both diagonals corner-to-corner and adjust the frame until they match before fixing it fully. Once square, go back and fully tighten every cam lock.

1 pack · Panel pins (if not included)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CD-05Fit the drawer runnersScrew the runners to the inside faces of the carcass at the marks printed on the panels, using the short screws provided. Fit the left and right runners level with each other, checking by eye or with a short spirit level. Uneven runners are the main reason drawers stick later, so take your time here.

CD-06Build each drawer boxAssemble the drawer sides, front and back using the cam locks or glued dowels shown in the instructions, then fit the drawer base. Check each box is square before you fix the base panel, using the same diagonal-measurement check as the main carcass.

1 bottle · Wood glue (if not included)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CD-07Fit drawer fronts and test the runnersScrew the decorative drawer front onto each drawer box, then clip or screw the matching runner parts onto the sides of the drawer. Slide each drawer into the carcass to test the fit. Most runners have a small adjustment screw at the back if a drawer rubs or sits unevenly.

CD-08Fit feet or legs and stand the unit uprightAttach the feet or legs while the carcass is still lying on its back - it's much easier than fitting them once it's standing. Get someone to help you stand the unit upright, as flatpack carcasses are awkward and top-heavy for one person alone. Check it sits level on the floor and use self-adhesive felt pads under the feet if the floor is uneven.

1 pack · Self-adhesive felt pads

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CD-09Check what's behind the wall before you drillYou're about to drill into the wall to fit an anti-tip strap, so treat the wall as live until proven otherwise. Use a cable and pipe detector, but still expect a cable or pipe to be there and rule it out yourself - detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and turn the water off at the stopcock before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CD-10Work out your wall typeTap the wall: a dull, solid sound everywhere means solid brick or block, while a hollow sound that turns solid every 400-600mm means a stud wall. Run a magnet or stud detector along the surface to find the line of screw heads fixing the plasterboard to the studs, then drill a 3mm pilot hole into that spot - pale wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow but has lumps of masonry adhesive behind it, not timber, so a short screw won't reach anything solid. Older, slightly springy walls with a lumpy surface may be lath and plaster - thin timber laths under lime plaster, common in houses built before about 1930.

1 each · Stud detector or strong magnet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CD-11Fix the anti-tip strap using the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 40mm deep, fit a wall plug, and drive in a 4x40mm screw. Timber stud: drive a 4x40mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud - no plug needed. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load - never a plain plastic plug or a wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; if the unit is tall or heavy, fix into a timber noggin between the studs instead, since a metal stud alone won't hold anything that pulls forward as it's used. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard, the air gap and the adhesive dabs to reach solid masonry behind, typically 60-75mm long. Lath and plaster: use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight, and drill carefully - the laths can crumble unexpectedly.

1 pack · Wall plugs (masonry)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Toggle / hollow-wall anchors

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Long frame fixings (60-75mm) for dot-and-dab

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Anti-tip strap (if not included with unit)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CD-12Final check and tidy-upLoad the drawers back in, check each one opens and closes smoothly, and adjust the runners again if any stick. Give the top of the unit a gentle tug to check the anti-tip strap is holding firm. Break down and recycle the packaging, and vacuum up any wood dust, metal swarf or masonry dust left from drilling.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides