Assemble a flatpack bed frame

Build a flatpack bed frame from panels to mattress-ready, including safely wall-fixing a tall headboard on any wall type.

FB-01Clear the room and check every partClear a flat area big enough to lay out the largest panel fully. Put down a blanket or flattened box cardboard to stop the floor and the frame getting scratched. Unpack everything and tick it off against the parts list before you start, so you can flag anything missing early. Sort screws, bolts, dowels and caps into small bowls or bags.

1 each · Dust sheet or old blanket

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FB-02Build the headboard and footboardPush the dowels into the panel holes, then bring the joining panel up to them. Tap gently with a rubber mallet to seat it, never force it. Fit the cam bolts and turn with the supplied key until the panel sits flush and tight. Repeat for the footboard.

1 each · Rubber mallet

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FB-03Connect the side railsFit the side rail brackets or bolts to both ends of the headboard and footboard. Hand-tighten every bolt first before fully tightening any single one. This keeps the frame square while you work rather than locking it out of shape.

FB-04Fit the centre rail and legs (double bed or larger)Double, king and super-king frames need a centre support rail with its own legs, or the middle of the mattress will sag over time. Space the legs evenly along the rail and tighten every bolt fully before moving on.

FB-05Lay and fix the slatsRest the slats in the routed slots or clip holders on the side rails. Space them evenly, usually 30-50mm apart, but check your manual since some warranties depend on the exact gap. Clip or screw down where fixings are supplied.

FB-06Square up and fully tighten everythingMeasure across both diagonals of the frame; if they match, it's square. Adjust if not, then go round every single bolt and screw with the correct tool and tighten fully. A loose bolt is the usual cause of a creaking or wobbly bed later.

FB-07Decide if the headboard needs fixing to the wallTall or heavy upholstered headboards, and any frame supplied with a wall bracket, should be fixed to the wall so it can't tip backwards or gradually walk away from the wall with use. If your frame only has legs and came with no bracket, skip ahead to tidying up.

FB-08Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just the usual safe zones. Sweep a cable and pipe detector over the fixing spot, but still treat the wall as if something is there - detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and they get confused by a metal stud frame. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can cut the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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FB-09Work out what wall you're fixing intoRun a stud detector or a strong magnet along the wall to find screw heads under plasterboard - a line of them marks a stud. Knock along the wall: a dull thud is solid, a hollow drum sound is stud wall or dot-and-dab. Drill a small pilot hole where the fixing will go: fine pale dust means timber stud, silvery metal filings mean metal stud, hard brick or block dust means solid masonry, and a hollow gap behind a thin solid skin usually means dot-and-dab. Thin, uneven wooden strips behind crumbly old plaster mean lath and plaster.

1 each · Strong magnet or stud detector

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FB-10Choose and fit the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill with a masonry bit sized to your plug (often 6mm), 40-50mm deep, fit a wall plug, then screw. Timber stud: use a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, biting at least 30mm into the timber, no plug needed. Metal stud: never use a wood screw or a plain plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight, and if the headboard will pull away from the wall in use, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard, the adhesive dabs and the air gap, often 40-70mm total, to bite into the solid wall behind. Lath and plaster: use a long toggle fixing that spans at least one lath rather than just the crumbly plaster, and drill pilot holes gently to avoid cracking the surface.

1 pack · Rawlplug wall plugs and screws, pack

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings, pack

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1 pack · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors, pack

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FB-11Fix the bracket and fit the mattressScrew the wall bracket to the headboard first, then hold it against the wall, mark the hole, and fix using the fixing you chose above. Rock the headboard gently before leaning on it to make sure it's solid. Once it's secure, lay the mattress on the slats.

FB-12Tidy upFlatten and recycle the cardboard packaging. Put any leftover screws, dowels or caps in a labelled bag and keep it with the instructions in case you need spares later. Vacuum the area for wood shavings, dust or dropped fixings.

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