Close gaps between laminate boards using a pull bar and tapping block, or filler if the boards won't budge.
LF-01Work out why the gap has appearedSmall gaps (1-3mm) between boards are usually caused by boards not being fully clicked together, or by a room drying out over winter. A gap that runs along one whole wall often means the expansion gap spacers were left out or moved during fitting. Check first before you start pulling boards apart, so you fix the right problem.
LF-02Clear the area and protect the floorMove furniture out of the room or well clear of the affected boards. Lay a dust sheet down if you'll be kneeling on the floor for a while. Sweep or vacuum the boards near the gap so grit doesn't scratch the surface as you work.
LF-03Remove skirting or scotia beading if it's blocking accessIf the gap is near a wall, the expansion gap is normally hidden under scotia beading or the skirting itself. Gently prise the beading away with a flat scraper, or lever the skirting off a few mm with a bolster if it's pinned down over the gap. Keep the pins or clips so you can refit it later.
LF-04Close a wall-edge gap with a pull barHook the curved end of a laminate pull bar into the gap and tap the straight end with a rubber mallet, pulling the board back towards its neighbour. Work along the gap a little at a time rather than trying to close it all in one go. Stop once the boards click together snugly.
LF-05Close a gap out in the middle of the floorFor gaps between boards away from the wall, use a tapping block against the edge of the board and tap it gently with the mallet to knock the joint fully home. Never hit the board directly with the mallet, it will crush the edge. If the boards won't move because they're locked to others further along, you may need to lift and re-lay that section back to the nearest wall.
LF-06Fill a gap that won't closeIf a board is warped, damaged, or the gap is right against a fixed obstacle like a doorframe, don't force it. Use a colour-matched laminate wax filler stick instead: warm it slightly, press it into the gap, and scrape off the excess with a plastic scraper once it's set. This is a cosmetic fix, not a structural one, so only use it on gaps under about 3mm.
LF-07Check the expansion gap is correct before refitting skirtingRun your finger along the edge of the floor against the wall. There should be a gap of roughly 8-10mm all the way round the room, even where you can't see it under skirting. This gap lets the floor expand in warm weather without buckling, so don't fill it solid or wedge anything into it.
LF-08Refit skirting or beading and tidy upPin the scotia beading or skirting back in place, pinning into the wall or skirting rather than down into the floor, so the laminate can still move freely underneath. Vacuum the floor, wipe over with a slightly damp cloth, and put the furniture back once everything is dry.