Fill or steam out the damage, sand it flush, match the colour, then seal so the repair blends into the floor.
RF-01Clear the area and clean the floorMove any furniture off the damaged board and give yourself space to kneel comfortably. Wipe the area with a damp cloth to lift dust, grit and old polish, then let it dry fully. Dirt trapped under filler or finish will show through, so don't skip this.
RF-02Check whether it's a scratch or a dentRun a fingernail across the mark. A scratch just breaks the surface finish and can usually be sanded or coloured out. A dent has actually compressed the wood fibres and sits below the surrounding surface — press it gently to feel the difference. Dents on solid wood (not engineered or laminate) can often be raised before filling.
RF-03Try to raise a dent with steam (solid wood only)Lay a damp cloth over the dent and press a warm iron on it for a few seconds at a time, checking often. The steam swells the compressed fibres and can lift the dent close to level. Never do this on engineered or laminate flooring, as heat and moisture will damage the veneer or lift the joints.
RF-04Fill the scratch or remaining dentChoose a wood filler close to your floor's natural colour — you'll fine-tune the shade in a later step, so slightly lighter is easier to adjust than darker. Press the filler into the mark with a flexible filling knife, slightly overfilling since it shrinks a little as it dries. Leave it to cure fully following the tin's timings before you touch it.
RF-05Sand the repair flushOnce fully cured, sand the filler back with 240-grit paper, working in the direction of the grain. Check often with your fingertips — you're aiming for level with the surrounding wood, not a dip or a bump. Finish with a light pass of 320-grit to smooth it out, then wipe away all dust with a tack cloth.
RF-06Match the colourTest a wood stain pen or a small dab of matching stain on an offcut or hidden spot first. Apply it lightly to the filled area — you can always build colour up in thin layers, but it's hard to lift once it's too dark. Let it dry fully before checking the match in daylight.
RF-07Seal the repair to match the existing finishApply a thin coat of the same finish as the rest of the floor — varnish, oil, or lacquer — over the repaired patch, feathering the edges into the surrounding boards so there's no visible line. Let it dry fully, then lightly buff with a soft cloth if the rest of the floor has a satin sheen.
1 small tin · Matching floor varnish, oil or lacquer
RF-08Let it cure, then move furniture back carefullyLeave the finish to cure fully before walking on it or replacing furniture — check the tin, but this is often 24 to 48 hours. Stick felt pads under furniture legs before you put them back to stop the same damage happening again.