BATHROOMS

Fit a bathroom wall cabinet to a metal stud wall

Fit a bathroom wall cabinet securely, choosing the right fixings for whatever is actually behind your tiles.

BC-01Plan the positionHold the cabinet up (or get someone to) and check it clears the mirror, light switch and any pipework below the sink. Mark the top edge in pencil, keeping at least 150mm above the basin tap and away from any shaver socket or extractor fan. Check the wall isn't over a shower tray or bath edge where you'd need to lean awkwardly to drill.
1 roll · Masking tape
BC-02Work out what's behind the wallRun a detector over the marked area to check for cables and pipes. Bathroom walls often hide shower pipework, so also press along the wall for hollow (stud) versus solid (brick/block) sound, and look for a line of screw heads under paint that shows stud centres, usually 400mm or 600mm apart. A magnet dragged over the area will stick to steel studs and screw heads but not timber ones.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
BC-03Identify your wall type before choosing fixingsSolid brick or block feels solid all over and dust from a small pilot hole is reddish or grey and gritty. Timber stud walls sound hollow between studs and a pilot hole brings out pale wood dust. Metal stud walls also sound hollow, but a pilot hole into the frame brings out fine grey metal swarf, not dust, and a magnet sticks to the frame. Dot-and-dab is plasterboard glued to brick with air gaps behind it, so it sounds hollow in patches but solid in others. Lath and plaster (older houses, pre-1930s) sounds hollow and slightly springy, with narrow timber laths under a few mm of hard plaster.
BC-04Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the cabinet at the marked height and use a spirit level to draw a true horizontal line. Mark through the cabinet's fixing holes onto the wall, or measure the hole centres and transfer them with the level. Stick masking tape over each mark if you're drilling through tiles, so the drill bit doesn't skate.
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
1 each · Pencil
BC-05Drill and fit the right fixings for your wallBefore drilling anywhere, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can cut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If your detector shows anything close to the marks, or you're at all unsure, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit and turn off the water at the stopcock before you drill. Solid brick or block: drill 6mm holes to at least 40mm depth, fit red plastic wall plugs, and use 50mm screws. Timber stud: drill a small pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a 50mm wood screw directly, no plug needed. Metal stud: never use a plain wall plug or wood screw, as they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud anchor or a toggle-type hollow-wall fixing rated for the cabinet's loaded weight, following the fixing's own pilot hole size. Dot-and-dab: use a long fixing (typically 75mm) that passes through the plasterboard air gap and bites into the masonry behind, not a short plug that only grips the board. Lath and plaster: use a spring or gravity toggle that spreads the load across the laths rather than screwing straight into one, which can crack the plaster.
4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud anchors
4 each · Red plastic wall plugs (6mm) - masonry
4 each · 50mm wood screws - timber stud
4 each · 75mm long fixings - dot-and-dab
1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)
BC-06Hang the cabinet and check it's secureLift the cabinet onto the fixings, following the manufacturer's hanging method (usually a bracket or keyhole slot). Check it's level again once hung, and give it a firm push and pull test. If the cabinet is heavy, glass-fronted, or will get loaded with bottles, and you're on a metal stud with no noggin behind, don't rely on toggles alone; consider fixing through to the masonry behind or fitting a timber noggin between the studs first.
4 each · Cabinet fixing screws (usually supplied)
BC-07Fit the door and shelves, then check it swings clearFit any adjustable shelves inside and hang the mirror door if it was removed for fitting. Open and close the door fully to check it doesn't catch on the wall or light fitting. Adjust the hinges slightly if it hangs unevenly.
BC-08Seal the top edge and tidy upIf the top or sides of the cabinet sit against tiles, run a thin bead of sanitary silicone along the join to stop water getting behind it. Wipe away any dust from drilling, vacuum up swarf or grit from the floor, and put tools away.
1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant (white)

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