Fit a glass bathroom shelf to a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a glass bathroom shelf securely, using the correct fixing for solid masonry, timber or metal studs, dot-and-dab, or lath and plaster.

GS-01Plan the position and check the wall buildDecide the height and check the shelf will clear the tap, mirror or light switch below and above. Look at the wall: tiled bathroom walls are often solid masonry or dot-and-dab plasterboard, but stud walls (timber or metal) are common for partition walls added later. Knowing the wall type now saves you buying the wrong fixings twice.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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GS-02Detect studs, cables and pipes, and know your shut-offs before you drillRun a detector over the whole area, both directions. Detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further, so still expect something to be there and prove otherwise with a small test hole first. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely before you start, so you can shut water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Stud, cable and pipe detector

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GS-03Mark the fixing centres and check for levelHold the bracket or shelf template against the wall at your chosen height and mark the fixing holes. Use a spirit level along the top edge before you commit to any marks, then double-check the two fixing points are level with each other, not just level individually.

1 each · Spirit level (900mm)

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1 roll · Masking tape

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GS-04Work out exactly what's behind the tile at each markRun the detector again over each exact fixing point. Then drill a small 3mm pilot hole at one mark: fine pale dust means plasterboard or masonry, timber shavings mean a wood stud, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud. A magnet dragged over the wall will stick to the screw heads of a metal stud line, spaced roughly 300mm or 600mm apart, but won't stick to timber studs or masonry.

1 each · 3mm HSS drill bit

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1 each · Small magnet

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GS-05Drill through the tile and wall, matching the method to your wall typeStart every hole with a tile bit at low speed and no hammer action, until you're through the glaze, then switch bits for the wall behind. Solid brick or block: switch to a masonry bit on hammer setting, drilling to the plug depth marked on the packet, usually 40-50mm. Timber stud: switch to a wood bit and drill only as deep as the screw needs to go. Metal stud: switch to a metal or self-drilling bit, no hammer action, and drill just through the 0.5mm steel. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: drill through the board and the air gap behind it into the masonry, checking depth with a drill bit marked at 60-70mm so your fixing reaches solid wall, not just the dab of adhesive. Lath and plaster: drill gently, expect to hit a wooden lath, and go carefully as the plaster around old laths crumbles easily.

1 set · Tile drill bit set

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1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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GS-06Fit the right fixing for your wall typeSolid masonry: push in a wall plug rated for the hole size and drive in a screw sized for that plug. Timber stud: drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, no plug needed. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud anchor or hollow-wall toggle made for steel studs, never a plastic plug and never a plain wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Plasterboard between studs: use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the shelf's loaded weight, glass and toiletries included. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and air gap and grip the masonry behind, typically 75mm. A glass shelf is light, but if you're fixing anything heavier later on a metal stud wall, fit a timber noggin between the studs first rather than relying on the plasterboard alone.

1 pack · Wall plugs and screws (masonry pack)

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1 pack · Wood screws, 40mm (pack of 10)

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud anchors (pack of 4)

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1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings (pack of 4)

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1 pack · Long fixings for dot-and-dab, 75mm (pack of 4)

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GS-07Fit the bracket and check it's solid before loading itScrew the bracket to the wall using the fixings from the last step, tightening firmly but not overtightening plasterboard toggles, which can crack the board. Give the bracket a firm tug and a gentle downward pull to check it doesn't move or creak. Re-check it's level before you fit the glass.

1 each · Spirit level (900mm)

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GS-08Fit the glass shelf and test the loadSlide or clip the glass shelf into the bracket following the kit's instructions. Once fitted, load it gently with a few bottles to check it holds steady with no flex or movement.

1 each · Glass bathroom shelf kit with brackets

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GS-09Seal any drilled tile edges and tidy upRun a thin bead of silicone sealant around any exposed drilled edges in tiled areas to stop water getting behind the wall. Wipe away dust, vacuum any drilling debris from the floor, and put fixings and screws away safely so nothing is left lying around a bathroom floor.

1 tube · Bathroom silicone sealant

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1 each · Cleaning cloth

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